Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

- Exterior/Engine

  • 92,000km's - Condition of car reflects km's (I don't suspect it's been wound back but you can never say for sure)
  • 5sp Manual
  • 222kw at the wheels at ~9psi
  • 650hp HKS Turbo
  • HKS 45mm Wastegate
  • Tuned Length Exhaust Manifold
  • Custom 3.5" Dump Pipe
  • Hi-Flow Cat
  • Dump pipe back 3" Exhast
  • HKS Super Powerflow Airfilter on 100mm Inlet Pipe
  • Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost Controller
  • HKS PFC-FCON Fuel Controller
  • HKS FCONV Fuel and Ignition Computer
  • HKS VPC Air Controller (No need for Air Flow Meter)
  • ARC Front Mount Intercooler
  • OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch (replaced Thrust Bearing too)
  • GTR Fuel Pump
  • Cusco Oil Catch Can
  • Potenza Suspension
  • Gold 18" Advan Model 7 Wheels
  • Back - 18" 255/40 90% Michelin Tyres
  • Front - 18" 235/40 Tyres on the front (soon to be replaced)
  • Timing Belt, all other belts, filters and fluids were changed at 89,000
  • Motul Engine Oil is used and changed every 5000km's along with Oil Filter
  • Redline Lightweight Shockproof Oil is used in the Gearbox which I have changed twice

- Interior/Exterior

  • Factory Electric Sunroof
  • Tinted Windows Darkest Legal F1 Grade Tint
  • Car alarm/4pt immobiliser/keyless entry. Fitted by Mercedes Benz, worth $800+
  • Greddy Electronic Boost Gauge
  • HKS Turbo Timer
  • Omori Electronic Exhaust Temp Gauge
  • Omori Electronic Oil Temp Gauge
  • Omori Electronic Oil Pressure Gauge
  • Nardi Leather Sports Steering Wheel
  • Alpine CVA-1000E TV Headunit
  • Alpine ERA-G100 Graphic Equalizer
  • Alpine TUE-011A TV Tuner
  • Pioneer Front and Rear Speakers
  • All Car Mats
  • Modified Type M Front Bar for increased flow to the Intercooler
  • GTR Side Skirts (I think)
  • Wide GTR Rear Spoiler with working Brake Light

- Recommendations

All that's required to make this car a 300+kw weapon is a set of bigger injectors and a bigger fuel pump. You'd be looking at about $1400 for a 40% increase over the current power levels.

- Other Info

I imported this car from Japan through a broker and I still have all the paperwork. This car was marked as Grade 4 condition wise but gets marked something else because of the modifications. The car was off the road for 9 months with a blown motor as an injector crapped out and the engine detonated. I had stock ones cleaned and fitted. I pulled out the engine and replaced it with a recently rebuilt RB25 and while that was happening I sent the turbo off to GCG to be assessed, all checked out good. The car was then tuned on the dyno and checked to make sure everything is ok and working properly. The car has been fantastic since.

Selling due to Overseas Commitments

Located in Melbourne Inner East

$25,500ono

--

Cheers,

Andrew

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...