Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok its been inevitable for the last 8 months, I need a new block!

I am looking at 1 thats located in melbourne just gotta get it crack tested etc

I have access to Nissan Genuine Parts at good prices (friend works there). I also have access to a good engine builder, who is also a family friend so it can be done at good price.

my thoughts are if the block is in good condition give it a light hone and use my current pistons with a new set of rings, rebuild it using std genuine nissan bearings, gaskets etc. not touching the head.

my other idea was if it needs to be bored rebuild it using something like forged pistons, but i am not too keen on the cold startup slap of this type, so maybe something like ACL race pistons or those hyperautetic (spelling?) pistons. O-ringing the head and buying a phat turbo.

Power output i was originally aiming for was 200rwkw and i believe this can be achieved with the std turbo and injectors? but will go for more power once i understand what my limits are.

I have a Microtech MT/LT8 and a GReddy Profec B EBC, current power output is ~174rwkw at 12psi, will be upgrading to a FMIC and Dump/Front pipe before car goes back on the road also.

have about $2/4K to play with

cheers Tim,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50231-rebuild-time-suggestions/
Share on other sites

forged pistons, but i am not too keen on the cold startup slap of this type

I have 3 cars with forged pistons and none of them "slap", it is simply a matter of setting the clearances to suite. I suggest a long talk with "the family friend" should kill off that myth. :)

Do i need Forgies for an engine thats only gonna see round 15psi and probably 300/350rwhp if im lucky?

Spoke to some guys that get their engines built at the particular place, said he swears by ACL Race Series pistons.

On another note one of these guys took me for a spin in his VH Commodore equipt with RB20DET, HKS T300, External Gate, FMIC, EMS and Launch Control, was bloody quick!

Do i need Forgies for an engine thats only gonna see round 15psi and probably 300/350rwhp if im lucky?

Its not really a yes or no answer but it comes down to wheather you want a reliable engine or not, an engine thats going to last 5 years or 1 year. I carnt really predict the life of an engine but its upto you if you want forged pistons or not.

In my opinion; If your going to do it once do it properly, saves you pulling out the engine later on in the future.

With forged pistons you could have a more responsive motor as you could step down a size in a turbo and run more boost (20-24psi) to make the same power as the larger turbo would on say 16-17psi. + you could afford to have a tune that is slightly more aggressive.

You always get used to the power and want to pump just that little more boost in so for an extra $1300 the forgy's are well worth while.

Don't worry about slap etc.. That is a thing of the past. Unless the builder is useless.

hmm ok, ill look into it... the guy building it builds race engines.

what turbo should i look at then? i can get a brand new GT3040 for ~$2000 + external gate, but i feel this may be a bit too big for my requirements?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...