Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I might need some of these reducers as well when i look at replacing the front mount 7mgte supra cooler i have fitted on the car atm (they are heaps restrictive) for a hybrid one (the angle grinder will be my friend when fitting that)

i had a mate who managed to get some thick rubber 3" 90 degree bend hoses that they use on truck intake piping when he did his hybrid cooler piping, i might see if i can find out where he got those from, they might have step down ones...

I got some thick as 2" rubber hose for my cooler piping from here:

Industrial Hose and Fittings Supply

Unit 1A, 64 Kewdale Rd Welshpool

ph: 08 9353 4900

Only cost me $23 for a metre long length, its rated at 60psi and has not slipped off yet, sure its not bling bling silicon but it does the job well. They did have silicon hose as well but when i priced it up i found it too $$$. They supply to the mining industry and had the aircraft grade hoseclamps so they might have what you are looking for...

Alternatively you could head to an exhaust shop and have 2 of them made up, but you still need the silicon hose joiners..

let me know how you go with it all

modyourcar has silicone reducers for around $39 each from 2 1/2->3inch so all you will need are a couple of those.

Is the standard pipes on the r33 3inch? or 2 1/2inch? im talking about the turbo and manifold pipe. i want to go back under the coller and not over the fan, using the existing plastic pipes from the standard cooler.

God Bless,

Nate

For those who may be interested, I have some stainless Apexi GT-Spec intercooler piping for sale for an R33 Gts-t. This includes all silicone joiners, hose clamps, and all brackets necessary. I bought the kit and just used the cooler on my car. looking for $350. It is painted in the apexi metallic blue colour with some scratches. Looks mint polished!! pm me if interested.

Since im over here in WA forum looking for brake pads, ill stick my nose in.

Mild steel is fine provided the person welding it knows what they are doing. If they use the wrong consumable, or stick weld / mig weld then you will never get a very good result. You can make mild steel pipes that make ppl go oooh ahhh all at a price that allows you to get them ceramic coated with the change.

If you dont ceramic coat them it would still be wise to give them a coat of paint,

My recommendation is using a tig welder is more critical then the material you use, so is making sure the tube is adequately purged

I used stainless only becuase i had off cuts from work. Otherwise i would have used mild steel as its cheaper to buy and readily available in thinner gauges making it lighter. But stainless is cool too:)

Update - the cooler is in!

After a few hours working my poor "IT-hands" I did it. Didn't actually need the 45degree bend I bought, and only used 500mm or so of straight pipe, but meh.

I have the 180degree bend thing happening under the car now, so I'm gonna test it at the next drags and see how I go, if I'm not happy with the result I'm going to change the piping to the over-the-engine styles.

For $690 all up, I'm pretty happy!

Unfortunately took no pics, I just wanted to get it all installed!

Using the stock piping return I used:

3x 90degree stainless elbows

1x 180degree stainless bend

about 500mm 2.5" piping.

Got them from Allbend engineering is Ossie Park

750mm 2.5" Radiator hose

12 Hose clamps

Got them from Enzed in Ossie Park

2x 3" -> 2.5" reducers

Got them from Coventry's in Morley

Assorted bolts/nuts ally strip and stuff for mounting

from Bunnings in Subi

Oh, and the 600x300x76mm cooler from WorksAuto

I'm a bit concerned how low the return pipe sits to the ground, being lowered on coilovers doesn't help! But it'll do.

My first drive found me blowing a cooler pipe off on charles street (how embarrasing) but after I re-tightened them all, it works a treat, had it up to 14psi :rolleyes:

My first drive found me blowing a cooler pipe off on charles street (how embarrasing) but after I re-tightened them all, it works a treat, had it up to 14psi :rolleyes:

One way to get around this is to get a centre punch and put about 4 "punches" around the ends of the pipes, just go from the inside out, this helps to give the clamps something to bind too.

Or just put some more elbow grease on those hose clamps...

My first drive found me blowing a cooler pipe off on charles street (how embarrasing) but after I re-tightened them all, it works a treat, had it up to 14psi :rolleyes:

One way to get around this is to get a centre punch and put about 4 "punches" around the ends of the pipes, just go from the inside out, this helps to give the clamps something to bind too.

Or just put some more elbow grease on those hose clamps...I have thus far not blown a hose off running 10psi through mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...