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I might need some of these reducers as well when i look at replacing the front mount 7mgte supra cooler i have fitted on the car atm (they are heaps restrictive) for a hybrid one (the angle grinder will be my friend when fitting that)

i had a mate who managed to get some thick rubber 3" 90 degree bend hoses that they use on truck intake piping when he did his hybrid cooler piping, i might see if i can find out where he got those from, they might have step down ones...

I got some thick as 2" rubber hose for my cooler piping from here:

Industrial Hose and Fittings Supply

Unit 1A, 64 Kewdale Rd Welshpool

ph: 08 9353 4900

Only cost me $23 for a metre long length, its rated at 60psi and has not slipped off yet, sure its not bling bling silicon but it does the job well. They did have silicon hose as well but when i priced it up i found it too $$$. They supply to the mining industry and had the aircraft grade hoseclamps so they might have what you are looking for...

Alternatively you could head to an exhaust shop and have 2 of them made up, but you still need the silicon hose joiners..

let me know how you go with it all

modyourcar has silicone reducers for around $39 each from 2 1/2->3inch so all you will need are a couple of those.

Is the standard pipes on the r33 3inch? or 2 1/2inch? im talking about the turbo and manifold pipe. i want to go back under the coller and not over the fan, using the existing plastic pipes from the standard cooler.

God Bless,

Nate

For those who may be interested, I have some stainless Apexi GT-Spec intercooler piping for sale for an R33 Gts-t. This includes all silicone joiners, hose clamps, and all brackets necessary. I bought the kit and just used the cooler on my car. looking for $350. It is painted in the apexi metallic blue colour with some scratches. Looks mint polished!! pm me if interested.

Since im over here in WA forum looking for brake pads, ill stick my nose in.

Mild steel is fine provided the person welding it knows what they are doing. If they use the wrong consumable, or stick weld / mig weld then you will never get a very good result. You can make mild steel pipes that make ppl go oooh ahhh all at a price that allows you to get them ceramic coated with the change.

If you dont ceramic coat them it would still be wise to give them a coat of paint,

My recommendation is using a tig welder is more critical then the material you use, so is making sure the tube is adequately purged

I used stainless only becuase i had off cuts from work. Otherwise i would have used mild steel as its cheaper to buy and readily available in thinner gauges making it lighter. But stainless is cool too:)

Update - the cooler is in!

After a few hours working my poor "IT-hands" I did it. Didn't actually need the 45degree bend I bought, and only used 500mm or so of straight pipe, but meh.

I have the 180degree bend thing happening under the car now, so I'm gonna test it at the next drags and see how I go, if I'm not happy with the result I'm going to change the piping to the over-the-engine styles.

For $690 all up, I'm pretty happy!

Unfortunately took no pics, I just wanted to get it all installed!

Using the stock piping return I used:

3x 90degree stainless elbows

1x 180degree stainless bend

about 500mm 2.5" piping.

Got them from Allbend engineering is Ossie Park

750mm 2.5" Radiator hose

12 Hose clamps

Got them from Enzed in Ossie Park

2x 3" -> 2.5" reducers

Got them from Coventry's in Morley

Assorted bolts/nuts ally strip and stuff for mounting

from Bunnings in Subi

Oh, and the 600x300x76mm cooler from WorksAuto

I'm a bit concerned how low the return pipe sits to the ground, being lowered on coilovers doesn't help! But it'll do.

My first drive found me blowing a cooler pipe off on charles street (how embarrasing) but after I re-tightened them all, it works a treat, had it up to 14psi :rolleyes:

My first drive found me blowing a cooler pipe off on charles street (how embarrasing) but after I re-tightened them all, it works a treat, had it up to 14psi :rolleyes:

One way to get around this is to get a centre punch and put about 4 "punches" around the ends of the pipes, just go from the inside out, this helps to give the clamps something to bind too.

Or just put some more elbow grease on those hose clamps...

My first drive found me blowing a cooler pipe off on charles street (how embarrasing) but after I re-tightened them all, it works a treat, had it up to 14psi :rolleyes:

One way to get around this is to get a centre punch and put about 4 "punches" around the ends of the pipes, just go from the inside out, this helps to give the clamps something to bind too.

Or just put some more elbow grease on those hose clamps...I have thus far not blown a hose off running 10psi through mine.

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