Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

My RNN14 GTI-R is now up for sale. Here is all the details I can think of!

12/92 Nissan Pulsar GTI-R, black. 79000 k’s.

Interior:

Momo “Race” steering wheel

Razo gear knob and pedals

HKS type one multi timer/meter

Trust/Greddy 60mm boost gauge

Genuine Nissan floor mats

Factory power sunroof (very rare option)

Power windows

Retractable power mirrors

Air conditioning

Engine:

Chipped ecu

Exhaust – 3 inch front pipe, 3 inch high flow cat, 3 inch custom cat back system

Braided turbo oil feed line

Braided clutch line

Trust frount mount intercooler

Trust Type S blow off valve

Turbosmart bleed valve (set to 0.8 bar)

Urethane Engine mounts

M’s pod filter

Veilside oil filler cap

Cusco radiator cap

Twin core alloy Calsonic radiator

NGK high tension plug leads with NGK platinum spark plugs

Suspension and brakes:

Factory ABS brakes

Front strut brace

Rear strut brace

Race brakes front and rear brake pads, with slotted rotors

ADR compliant braided brake lines all around

Rebuilt rear callipers

Clutch pedal bracket

Tein type HA damper and height adjustable coil-over suspension

Whiteline Anti-lift kit

Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar

Whiteline link bushes and sway bar D bushes

Whiteline camber kit

Exterior:

Clear side and front indicators with silver fusion indicator bulbs

Alloy wheels with Toyo Trampio Tyres

New front bumper bar with tow hook cover

Stereo and alarm system:

Sony Head unit with 3, 4 volt pre outs

Clarion two channel amp, powering;

Boston Acoustics 6.5inch splits

Alpine 2 channel amp, powering;

Rockford Fosgate 10 inch sub

Flashpoint Level 4 alarm with 3 point immobiliser

History:

This car was imported in late 2002, by JappSport (formerly Fuji Motorsport) in Sydney. I was the first Australian owner, buying the car in December 2002. Since owning the car I have spent in excess of $10 000 to make the car what it is today, a neat, quick reliable street car :rant:. The stereo and alarm set-up alone was over $3000 and all suspension components were bought brand new with around $3000 spent there too.

Always serviced with Castrol formula R, 10W60 and genuine Nissan oil filters. Brake fluid used is Trust Super DOT 4.

All suspension components were professionally installed and set-up at Whiteline Suspension in Sydney.

All of the stereo and alarm components were installed by Lifestyle Car Audio.

The exhaust was custom made by Liverpool Exhausts

All other mechanical/service work was carried out at Rice Engineering in Sydney

The car has been dyno tuned to 156 all wheel kilowatts at only 0.85 bar boost at Premier Auto Centre.

Timing chain tensioner has been replaced and the timing chain inspected. CV boots have been replaced. Clutch master cylinder has been rebuilt. Starter motor has been replaced. Front wheel bearings have been replaced. All accessory belts have been replaced. Fuel filter has been changed. Engine has excellent compression across all cylinders.

The car has just under 4 months registration remaining.

This car has been owned and cared for by a true nissan enthusiast. The only reason I'm even selling it now is because I now own a GTR skyline. Registering, insuring and maintaining two cars is a bit silly for someone who doesn't even drive to work!

Asking $19 000.

I can't re-size the pics at work and one is 115kb the other is 142, if someone could do if for me so that I can upload them that would be great. Or whoever wants pics can request them here and I'll email them. Car is located in Sydney.

Please contact me (Richard) on 0405 186 433

Cheers. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50616-rnn14-gti-r/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks mate.

Had plenty of calls and interest, but no-one has walked away with the keys yet.

Also, no swaps for other cars, I've already bought another car which is why I'm selling this one!

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50616-rnn14-gti-r/#findComment-1046852
Share on other sites

link to pics says its been sold??

That's weird! Maybe they do that when you don't re-sucbscribe the ad? hmmm.

I'll give carpoint a ring.

Anyway, it's still for sale :D

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50616-rnn14-gti-r/#findComment-1062078
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

bumped, still for sale. I'm now getting more keen to sell as the GTR is getting closer to arriving in Sydney. Anyone who's interested don't let the price put you off, it's a great car and I'll be happy to negotiate with an interested buyer.

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50616-rnn14-gti-r/#findComment-1087249
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...