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R31 keeps dying on me

Dave2003

By Dave2003,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

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Dave2003 Rookie

Dave2003

Posted
Posted

I have got a problem with my 1990 skyline's 3.0litre Six Cylinder motor (The same 3.0 litre used in the VL commodore) that I think is due to the Crank Angle Sensor.

Every time I drive my car for long periods or multiple times during a short period once the motor reaches a certain temperature it cuts out on me and sometimes wont even restart for half an hour or so until it has cooled down again.

Whenever the motor is stone cold after having cooled down overnight it is fine and drives perfectly for the first 30minutes but later on in the day when I drive it home from work for example it will start cutting out after 15minutes.

I was told that this problem was due to the Crank Angle sensor and that it happens all of the time with the 3.0 litre Sixes in Skylines and Commodores.

Is this diagnosis correct and has anyone else here had the same problem?

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predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

sounds like the most likely cause.. i had the same problem in my old r31.. even stopped once going 60km/hr across an intersection :)

would start anywhere from 1 minute to 30 minutes later when it felt like it. But once the CAS was replaced all back to normal. It was an odd problem.

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted

just to answer the last question the ecu is behind the passengers side kick panel, "joint" ???

just another thing for you to think of, my machanic said that theres a temp sensor that if it stops sending signals to the ecu the ecu will shut off the injectors which in my case resulted in the same problem as you?

shane_cummings Contributor

shane_cummings

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I'm having a very similar problem except mine doesn't completely stop, it misses like a b#@%ch when warm. It will occasionally stop under high vacume when pulling up to lights or in driveway etc.

Have ruled out plugs, leads, injectors, not using water. I've spent so much time on the thing in the last few months I just can't be shagged with trying to find what's wrong.

SKY031 Grand Master

SKY031

Posted
Posted
Have ruled out plugs, leads, injectors, not using water. I've spent so much time on the thing in the last few months I just can't be shagged with trying to find what's wrong.

Check the timing.

  • 3 months later...
shane_cummings Contributor

shane_cummings

Posted
Posted

Well, my woes appear to be over, After 5 weeks sitting in a workshop while I was on my honneymoon I got back and it still wasn't fixed! I was told it was a computer which I went and bought, wasn't that. Then I was told it was definitely injectors, I refused to pay $800 for a reco set so I took it back and replaced the engine loom myself. Cost me $50 and the problem is %100 fixed.

The timing was crazy, it would be massively advanced and then back to normal and even look like it was sending 2 signals at once. We also got rid of some wiring that was left over from a LPG conversion that I took out when I first got the car. This did not fix the problem itself but strangely made the problem not as bad?! I'm just glad it is fixed. Wish I knew exactly which wire or plug was the problem though.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

sounds like the typical old-school mechanic who has no idea about newer electronic ignition cars :thumbsup:

$800 for injectors? cripes.. i got a set you could have had for $50.. so did you replace all the sensors?

a proper autoelec should have been able to track down the wiring problem in a day at worst. Sounds like incompetance or "can't be bothered" at best on behalf of these mechanics!

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

It sounds like the typical CAS issue.

If the rubber boot is perished and cracked 80% chance it is the CAS as water will be getting down in there and corroding it. If the rubber boot is not cracked I wouldn't even look at the CAS as being the problem.

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Get some 'freeze' spray (used for the treatment of sprains without ice) & the next time the car dies, give the CAS/dizzy a good dose. If the problem is corrected, then the CAS is the problem. This is a typical RB30E problem. My parents' VL has had 3 CAS die in the same way over the last 14 years.

Joint = solder joint. Bad connection on the ECU circuit board.

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