Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seriously dude.... I own a done up civic..up till now, i let my girlfriend drive it around..i have spent alot of time and money on this civic to the point that it matched up the price of my Skyline...bought my skyline 4 months after i got the civic...not really planning on getting another car...but i saw this silver one on the street and i was like.." mamamia" and it's for sale...just thought maybe i take it for a test drive..so i did...and after that...i took her home 5 days later.

here's what you can do ---> take a skyline for a spin and you'd know what i mean.

if you're thinking of buying a civic and do things up yourself...i suggest get a skyline..you can do alot with a Skyline without being rice.

Skyline eat rice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009487
Share on other sites

leech_: yer i'll go ask on a ford or holden website see what they say LOL

nismo33: i doubt i'd be able to do it up straight away apart from a sound system and be having it stock for awhile til i get some more $$$ and your skyline is an R33 course i take that over a civic anyday! hahaha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009508
Share on other sites

Not really man, im 22 with 0% no claim bonus and Famous Classic Car Insurance quoted me $2200 for my r32 gtst, which i think is dirt cheap for this vehicle...

If you do end up getting a civic *shakes head* then it better be a vtec model...they sound sweeeeet with a rampod when the vtec kicks in about 5tho rpm

and if you dont get that then your just silly haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009529
Share on other sites

if your insurance be $2200 mine be like through the roof! haha i'm more into a car with looks for now then when i get my full license i'd get a car for speed. if i don't get a civic now i'll get the R32 in december for sure, just in time for summer holiday too! be like cruising everyday! ahahaha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009557
Share on other sites

I pay $960 p.a full comp rating 1, market value $15,500.

There's two types of people.

Rev heads and non-rev heads. :)

The rev heads when on a budget will buy a car that has potential to be its quickest.

The non rev heads are the pretty boys who like to make an impression.

As you get more money these merge. :D

i.e... I bought an ugly TE cortina back when I was 16.5, slapped on a holly mild cam and 2.5" exhaust. Thing went like the clappers.

5 gearbox's and 1 diff later. :D

It went hard and used to have no problems pulling away from what then was a sicko VN V8 commodore as did it have no problems leaving my mates RX7 Series III 13B N/A.

Good fun car that was. Loads of low down torque. Peak power was made at just before 5000rpm. Slightly loopy idle. :D

Its your first car.. Get some thing that hauls arse.

These days you should be able to pick up a cheapish V8 of some sort. Drop a cam in to it and get it going hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009564
Share on other sites

I gotta disagree, Rev-heads and non rev-heads both equally want to make an impression, just in different ways, every person has a desire to be noticed and appreciated by others, so if you're a rev-head you just want it in a different way, but it's all the same thing, doesn't make you any better.

Personally out of the two options, well I think r32's are a little long in the tooth and don't exactly look too modern nowdays. I mean they looks late 80's.

On the other hand, a civic is a shitty little hatchback that does at least look relatively current model-ish but on the other hand looks stoopid all done up with some giant exhaust on the back. I mean it's not a sportscar, it's not a Type-r hot hatch so why bother making it something it's not.

I'd save up for an r33 a bit more probably.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50903-deleted/#findComment-1009605
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...