Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i need a bit of help here, just changed my timing, fan, powersteering, ac belts.

I made sure all the timing markers etc all match up but after starting the car, it wont idle, just stalls everytime you take your foot off the accelerater.

Does this sound like i need to get the timing readjusted or something else??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/50924-timing-belt-change/
Share on other sites

Did you plug the sensor back in???

Also check your AFM plug if you disconnected that

Firstly yes everything that was disconnected has been reconnected correctly.

All the timing markers on the pulleys all match up with the correct markings on the belts.

I sorted out the stalling issue by adjusting the idle up slighty, but the car still feels very underpowered, any ideas????

check the timing , did you mark the position of the cas before removal ? did you put it back at the same pos ? my guess is your timing is a little retarded thats why you had to up the idle . so check timing with a timing light , about 15 deg .

check the timing , did you mark the position of the cas before removal ? did you put it back at the same pos ? my guess is your timing is a little retarded thats why you had to up the idle . so check timing with a timing light , about 15 deg .

Yeah i marked the cas and put it back on the same mark, im taking it into a workshop 2morrow to get the timing checked.

Yeah i marked the cas and put it back on the same mark, im taking it into a workshop 2morrow to get the timing checked.

dont forget that a couple of mm out it will be a few degrees and thats enough to make it slugish , provided you did everything right and didnt bend any valves , if you did it would be missing though so you should be able to tell .

when you check the timing you will find

out , hopefully she will be ok .

scuzzy , yes thats right if on top dead centre but carefull you can bend valves if you let it jump hard and hit top of piston .

when you have the timing belt off you shouldnt move the crank or cams until belt is back in place .

so when I pull the belt off will the cams move off top dead centre on their own

no but if you bump them they will move like 90 degrees just like they sprung , like you said they did . what i said was be carefull not to let them jump like that cause you may bend valves ( you are moving the valves and not the pistons ) if they hit the top of the pistons .

if you are replacing the timing belt make sure you know what you are doing , incorrect timing can stuff your engine as will incorrect tension , even the bolts that hold the tensioner and iddler pullies must be tensioned right . do them to tight and you break the bolts not tight enough and they come undone .

if you havent got a manual do a search in these forums and you will find how to do timing belt .

Got the car back this afternoon, and the timing belt was out by just one tooth on the exhaust cam side. DAMN it made such a big difference to way the car would drive. All fixed now though.

how did you manage to put it in one tooth out when the belt has lines marked on it and each line has to match the mark on each pulley .

how did you manage to put it in one tooth out when the belt has lines marked on it and each line has to match the mark on each pulley .

Good question :wassup:

Guess i just rushed it abit, i was sure i had it all lined up but i was wrong.

But doesn't matter now, i can enjoy driving the car again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...