Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just wanna ask a few questions

ive been looking at buying a guard rolling machine for a couple months now because uite a few people have been asking where to get it done how much etc etc.

what would/have you guys paid to get your guards rolled????

if enough people around sydney want to get it done in the near future i might get one and do a donation type thing to the forums.

let me know wat you guys think

thanks

anf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51429-guard-rolling/
Share on other sites

and if the paint cracked while you rolled the people's guards would you cover the costs incurred?

when I had my 180 I looked at getting my guards rolled, people wanted to charge me around $50 per wheel arch. In the end one of my mates rigged up a steel roller welded to an old hub which happened to have the same PCD as my 180. got a big ol heat gun and on the hottest summer day we could find we rolled my arches... ghetto style. End cost... $20.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51429-guard-rolling/#findComment-1018132
Share on other sites

i dont think any place would cover the paint from cracking because its very difficult to save the paint 100%. paint is not very flexible heating it can save the paint to a cretain extent but it will never be 100%.

i just trying to gauge interest because i cant see the point of paying 200+ for guard rolling.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51429-guard-rolling/#findComment-1018134
Share on other sites

I would certainly expect a guarantee of no damage to the car from a professional workshop. Mine were done by Tempe Tyres of all places, and it was around $200. Nothing cracked so I never needed to have that arguament....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51429-guard-rolling/#findComment-1020337
Share on other sites

I would be absolutely ropeable if that happened. You go in and ask to get you guards rolled, not for you car to be butchered with paint falling off. If a business doesn't beleive they can guarantee the work then they can't do it.

Imagine if you wanted to fit another 1cm of rubber under the guards because it looks good on the rims you have. Does it look good if the guards are visably uneven, paint cracked and rust?

Anyway sorry for the hijack, its just I've seen some *terrible* jobs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51429-guard-rolling/#findComment-1020535
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...