Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What I did was get a spray bottle and fill it with hot water and dish washing liquid.Get a scraper RazorBladeScraper.jpg .All you do is start scraping from the top and once you start a bit spray it and just keep working it.The hot water gets all that sticky shit off.

The one window I did'nt do was the rear one coz it has the demisters on the inside.Yours might be different.

My tint guy used an old kettle... one of those ones that doesn't turn off when it starts to boil. Attached to the end of this he attached a hose. (The steam would come out of the hose)

Basically he used this as a steamer.

He steamed the crap out of the tint, used a scrapper to grab an edge, then pulled and steamed. Came off soooo easily and all in one piece.

After this he just steamed the window and scraped it lightly to remove any glue residue.

Very, very easy with steam.

wil..

i fit car windscrees as a job and what we do is spray glass cleaner all over the window u want to clean be generous with the amount the more the better and scrape it off with a razor blade make sure its a new blade u dont want it to scratch your windows and the tint comes off in like a snot form so u just go over the windwo then wipe away the snot and so on make sure your razor blade has no burs on it to scratch the windo its heaps easy if u take the window out 2 the door ones are easy to pull apart and remove .

yeah i have never touched the rear screens becasue of the dimester so i wouldnt know i jsut know how to take the tint of otherwindows because when we have to replace a smashed door window sometimes the people dont want the tint and the second hand window has tint dont know how u would go with ya rear screen but be careful not to damagae it whatever u do becasue rear screens are really expensive if u cant get a second hand one for example i had to replace rea scree in a mercedes amg model and the screen could only be geuine and it was just over 5 grand

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest RedLineGTR

These are the things you will need before you start:

Before we start, we must warn you this is not for the faint hearted. If the tint is not removed correctly in the first place it will just end up costing you more. If you don't know how to remove tint correctly, The Tint Professor encourages you to not try this and see a professional who does.

A warm sunny day

Flat razor blades or Scraper blades (You will always need to use a new blade so have plenty of spares to change over)

-Adhesive or a glue remover (Any suggestions???????)

-Paper towels

-Automotive window cleaner

-A Large Garbage Bag

-Very fine steel wool (grade 000)

-And lastly tonnes of patience...

Removing Tint from the Rear Window

1. Firstly clear the rear window of any likely obstructions, like speakers or brake lights etc.

2.The best way to remove the auto tint is to steam the film off.

We suggest you do this using a large garbage bag. Cut two sides of the bag and open it up. Cut the sheet of plastic to the shape and rough size of the rear window. Soak the window by spraying the inside of the rear window with water and lay the plastic sheet over the window.

3. Now park the car with the rear window directly facing the sun for about an hour or so. The hotter the window gets the better it is. So choose a nice sunny, warm day.

4. Next, lay a tarp over the back seats and rear deck because now is the time to get messy. Start peeling a corner with a razor where there are no demister cables. Dont use a blade anywhere near the demister lines as if you accidentally cut one of these - no more demister.

5. Try peel off the film in one peice. If it doesn't come off in one peice and one thin layer is left behind still, you could be in a spot of trouble. You will need to resoak the window and start again. If it isn't working it may definitely be the time to call in professionals.

6. Once the film is off, using a fine steel wool (grade 000) scrub the adhesive off with soapy water or an adhesive remover. Mop up the residue with plenty of paper towels. Keep window wet at all times - keep spraying window.

7. Finish up with a window cleaner and paper towels.

Removing tint from side windows:

Complete this task in a cool, dust free environment.

1. Relatively speaking, this is usually a much easier task than the rear window. Try peeling the film off from a corner using the razor blade to loosen and pry the tint away from the window. Depending on the quality, the age and how damaged the tint is will detirmine how hard a task this job is going to be.

2. Once all the tint is off, spray the window well and keep it wet.

3. Glide the razor blade along the glass surface, scraping up all the glue as you go and using paper towels to clean away all residue. You need to ensure your blade is sharp. So you will probably need two or three blades each window. A blunt blade can cause damage to the window. We suggest it might be a good idea to leave the window edges until last.

4. Use an automotive window cleaner to clean the window and then use the fine steel wool to gently scub and remove any remaining glues.

Guest RedLineGTR

This was taken from the tint professor web site:

http://www.tintprofessor.com.au/pages/defa...m?page_id=22486

Also this is interesting as well.

FREE - Car Tint Removal

Currently, if you mention this tips page on our website, we will remove your old tint for FREE when you have a new tint installed by us. Hurry though, this is a great deal but is available for a very limited time only. If this special is taken down from the web by the time you ring. then unfortunately the offer is void.

(You must mention this tips page to receive the offer.)

in my first car i had bubbly tint on every window. the worst thing was you couldnt peel it off cos it would just break...old and brittle. i did the razor blade thing...and careful as i was, i managed to stuff all but 3 of my rear demister lines. The car i had after that also had pretty crappy tint (that old skool purple tint). i remembered what happened last time to the rear demister, so this time i used a heat gun. heat and peel. the only thing i didnt think about was my roll cage padding.....needless to say, it melted! bah!

  • 4 months later...

I did this over the weekend. I removed the window tint from the rear window and it went a treat - the demister lines in the glass still perfect. Here's what i did;

1) got a painting drop sheet to cover back seats etc

2) mixed a solution of 200ml ammonia (from cleaning isle in supermarket) & 200ml of water into a spray container

3) section by section i sprayed the solution on the inside of the rear window, then covered with glad wrap to keep moisture against window. This was probably the trickiest part of entire job as glqad wrap is difficult to handle at the best of times.

4) parked the car in the sun (a 30 degree day, the hotter the better i think) for 2 hours.

5) with the glad wrap still on, i used a razor to gently lift a corner of the tint, then just peeled the tint off gently in one piece with my hands! It was a perfect job, not a sign of the tint left and demister lines left unscathed.

I hope you find this post helpful. Good luck!

I did this over the weekend.  I removed the window tint from the rear window and it went a treat - the demister lines in the glass still perfect.  Here's what i did;

1) got a painting drop sheet to cover back seats etc

2) mixed a solution of 200ml ammonia (from cleaning isle in supermarket) & 200ml of water into a spray container

3) section by section i sprayed the solution on the inside of the rear window, then covered with glad wrap to keep moisture against window.  This was probably the trickiest part of entire job as glqad wrap is difficult to handle at the best of times.

4) parked the car in the sun (a 30 degree day, the hotter the better i think) for 2 hours.  

5) with the glad wrap still on, i used a razor to gently lift a corner of the tint, then just peeled the tint off gently in one piece with my hands!  It was a perfect job, not a sign of the tint left and demister lines left unscathed.

I hope you find this post helpful.  Good luck!

Awesome work :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm so far behind in the jobs I have to do at both work and home (including car) that I have become immortal. There's simply no way that I can die now.
    • Each to their own I guess  Me, I put just as much time into cleaning inside of the cars as I do on the outside As for getting wet, it is really no different than steam cleaning the carpets at home, apart from the cars carpet dries alot faster than the house, again, I only do it in the hotter months and leave the car opened up for a few hours As I only do it yearly, it is just before I do the diff and gearbox service, so I clean the carpets, then it's up on stands, wheels off, service, clean the undercarriage,  grease the bushings and do a nut and bolt check on everything  Disclaimer: I typically had all the time in the world to kill when I was working 馃ぃ, so spending a full day or 2 cleaning, serving and "looking at stuff" was,  easily achievable, and a fun mental therapy day As for time to kill, I retired last Wednesday, so apart from my physical training, my days are filled with lots of random jobs around the house and garden...."Idle hands are the Devils something something" I am also buying a new house sooner rather than later, I'm actually looking at a potential property tomorrow, I'm looking forward to getting a car hoist as I'm starting to get to old to crawl around under a car, I can only imagine all the undercarriage cleaning and looking at stuff when that gets set up
    • Yeah, I'm not interested in wetting the carpets, and I don't care about brown dirt/dust that lives deep in the pile or underneath. It's not like I crawl around on them in my birthday suit or eat dropped food off them (because there is never any open food in my car). The seats are alcantara (cheap Chinese imitation alcantara, to be sure!) with barely 1" of foam pad behind the surface. That's not getting wet either. Any car that I would be happy to get the interior wet, I would not care to put the effort into.
    • We have one that holds 2.8L of water. On floor carpet that hasn't been touched in 2 or 3 years, will take a minimum of 2 fills of the tank to do a bedroom, and that's going AROUND the bed.   In the cruiser, I used an ENTIRE 2.8L tank, just on the front passenger footwell. But it had some fungus growing, and had been full of mud from being used as a 4WD for many years. I can do that floor again, and it will still pull mud out. However, the water now only looks dirty, not pitch black and leaving full sludge in the bottom of the tank it sucks back into. Oh, and, this is about a $1500 unit.
    • This is mine, works a treat for the cars, suction is good, I use the Bissell clean and protect stuff I have found giving it a good spray and light scrub with the soft brush on the head of the nossle for carpet, and a rub with a microfibre for cloth seats and cloth door trims, prior to another quick spray before vacuuming it up works the best @GTSBoy You would surprised on what it gets out of carpet and seats that actually "look" clean, I recommend that you test drive yours when you have a little time to kill, then post pics of the muddy looking water that I believe you will find
  • Create New...