Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

By the looks of it, my R isn't the only one being offloaded at the moment so I know my chances are pretty slim but I'll give it a shot anyway. If it sell it sells but if it doesn't then I'll just keep it till I come home. Reason for sale - unexpected career advancement that means I need head overseas so I'll have to pack my bags and go.

I'm not chasing unrealistic money, in fact, the opening price is barely enough to import one, comply it then register it so I think it is fair for the buyer and fair for me. Hey, it's a win-win situation: you pay less than what it's worth while I get more than what wholesale would've given me.

Here's the nitty gritty stuff

GTR Series 1 V-Spec 03/1995 (according to FAST)

97k km

Power @ wheels: no idea at the moment, will go grab a dyno run at Unigroup in the coming weeks when I got the time

Resprayed in light silver with lilac pearls

Twin Airbag

Twin Plate Ogura Racing Clutch/Flywheel

Aftermarket Front Pipes

HKS EVC 3 Boost Control

Nismo fuel pressure regulator

Z32 AFM's

Aftermarket fuel rail

Twin HKS green mushrooms

Trust dumps

Nismo 600cc injectors

HKS Turbo Timer (the previous version from the current)

HKS "Priest" exhaust 3" from the cat back

Aragosta coilovers with Eibach springs

17" wheel (not the factory one, will get the name off it tomorrow)

...maybe I've missed something, I'll double check with the car tomorrow.

Spares I could bundle it with the car - Trust oil filter relocator, stock GTR exhaust and a rear window shade. There's also an aftermarket steering wheel with the HICAS boss too if anyone wants to sacrafice an airbag. There's also 2 HKS electronic gauge (boost + exhaust temp) in a GReddy twin gauge pod that's currently sitting there doing nothing.

Bit of history - purchased as a grade 3.5 car from Japan back in late Jan/early Feb, couldn't scrap enough money for the rest of the process so it sits there in Japan until mid March. Got here in April and complied/plated in June. Got most of the documents here and there. I almost forgot, there's those compliance Falken boots which have done 3km so if the buyer wants them, feel free to take it or will deduct them from the price.

There are areas which need some attention - the hand brake and gearshift boots are rooted and the stereo (just the head unit) disappeared. I may install a cheapass head unit in there next weekend, however. There's also couple of minor dents here and there but nothing major.

Comes with rego until June 2005 (NSW) and warranty can be purchased on your behalf if desired but of course you'll fork out for it. Price - $35,500 negotiable of course but not too much.

I can be contacted via PM or e-mail to bcnr33gtr @ optusnet com au (assemble that up and send me an e-mail).

Suppose to have some pictures BUT after I washed the damn thing today it rained so I'll need to repeat that tomorrow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/51471-eoi-95-r33-gtr-v-spec-35500/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...