Jump to content
SAU Community

r32 radio

Jaystar

By Jaystar,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jaystar Collaborator

Jaystar

Posted
Posted

hey all

this may sound like a bit of a stupid question but i have gotten an r32 not long ago now and when purchasing it already had an aftermarket cd player installed (Pioneer). Now there is no aerial on the vehicle and when trying to listen to radio the headunit does not pick up any stations. Now i am wondering if this is due to the way the headunit has been wired up? Can you not get any radio reception in the r32's? Or what could it be?

Any help appreciated, just been giving my cds a good work out and wouldnt mind some radio.

thanx

Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/
Share on other sites
B0oStEr Mentor

B0oStEr

Posted
Posted

On the R32 the antennae are the fine wires in the front and rear windscreen.

Is your Pioneer deck an aussie or jap model? The jap models only pick up a few aussie stations as the bandwidths overlap a bit.

If it's a jap deck you could have a bandwidth shifter fitted.

If it's an aussie model then it may not have been fitted correctly. I think there is an antenna booster in the boot of some if not all R32s. I've been told the black and red wire, that is taped to the antenna coax that plugs into the back of the deck, needs to be wired to the power antenna (blue) wire that comes out of the deck so the booster can get 12 volts.

When the factory deck is replaced with an aftermarket deck you need an adapter plug.

The factory plug has 2 pins and the a/m deck only uses the pin from the rear windscreen.

One suitable adapter on the market is Aerpro AP348A.

I hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/#findComment-1028155
Share on other sites
Roeshambo Rookie

Roeshambo

Posted
Posted

Hey Jaystar,

I have also just picked up an R32 with an after market radio and had the exact same problem as you, no radio reception. After pulling the deck and checking it turned out that the previous installed had not connect the cores of the cars antenna cable to the core of the adapter plug. 10mins and solder iron fixed that problem. Just be careful as the core wires are really thin and can break real easy if your heavy handed.

Hope that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/#findComment-1029562
Share on other sites
Jaystar Collaborator

Jaystar

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I had the same issue and was due to it being a jap spec radio. Fitted the band expander and all sorted. 2 weeks later i just bought a new headunit.

ok guys i found the black and red wire which has a little plastic connector on it.

Do i remove it from this connector and add a metal male connector on the end of it so i can plug it into the blue and white wire coming off of the headunit?

is this all i have to do? or do i have to do something with the 2 pin connector also?

it looks like an aerial one but doesnt fit on the headunit.

i made an error the current headunit in it is a jvc kd-sx695.

all help appreciated

thanx

Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/#findComment-1034878
Share on other sites
Jaystar Collaborator

Jaystar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok i have fitted the adaptor so that i can plug the aerial into back of headunit and radio is working fine. Because my aerial is the little wire built into the windscreen do i still need to hook up this red and black wire to the blue one out of the head unit?

because it says auto aerial or something like that?

if so can someone explain why to me please.

thanx

jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/#findComment-1043626
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

yes you do. that wire runs a small antenna amplifier. if you switch to AM you will notice that it doesnt work. FM around the city will be fine but outside of it FM will be patchy.

connecting it up ( blue wire on most radio) to the ant control will solve this problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52105-r32-radio/#findComment-1043677
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...