Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Change of plans im out of cash the whole car is for sale!!!!

BEST OFFER!!!!

I have R33 parts for sale. All undamaged asthetic parts are for sale(you can buy the damaged parts if you want). engind, driveline, suspention etc is currently NOT for sale but some of this might come up for sale at a later date.

Parts for sale include:-

*all undamaged panels (illistrated in pics). The car also took a hit in the B-pillar so drivers door and rear quater have damage.

*drivers head light $250

*both tail lights $150ea.

*seats $1200 for front and rear (good condition) may seperate

*sunroof $offer

*windows $250ea front and rear, driver/passanger $120 w/out power motor... $160 with motor, quater glass $90 ea.

*full interior $offers on various parts

*GTR rear wing and boot lid (will not seperate) $400.

*KYB adjustable suspension, (rear drivers side, is snapped) so 3 only. Make an offer!

Look through the pics and if you see anything you want PM me with an offer. steering wheel, aftermarket guages and sterio have already been taken.

33871139.DSCF0006.jpg33871178.Picture010.jpg33871217.DSCF0031.jpg33871282.DSCF0012.jpg

If pics dont work, type this into your address box http://www.pbase.com/breno/inbox

For better pics go to my photo gallery.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...00&ppuser=13302

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52150-r33-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Umm the shell is definatly not repairable, it was when we got it but not anymore, the car is virtually fully stripped, jus got the engine left to pull out, but the roof is bent from us moving it (by crane) n there are too many holes is the side. but the doors n drivers front guard are good. And also if someone wanted to cut the rear left quarter (for drift damage) that is good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...