Jump to content
SAU Community

Dyno Sheets Only

GRUNTN

By GRUNTN,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Dead stock the car made 115rwkw then with a little bit of fiddling (timing etc) it made 125rwkw.

First Dyno..

152rwkw with 12.5psi & exhaust.

Stock airbox, ECU & IC.

Ran in 3rd gear.. why I don't know.

Second Dyno..

164rwkw with 15psi, exhaust, fmic & bosch910 fuel pump.

Stock airbox & ECU.

Ran in 4th gear..

Also have a run in third gear which made almost the same power (-3rwkw) so gears don't affect the final power output much at all.

In fact a higher gear made more power than the lower gears.

I questioned why and was told in the higher gear the turbo has more time to start pushing some decent air.

-----

Not much more to be had with the poor little old RB20t turbo..

Obviously runs out of efficiency hence not a big gain from 12.5psi -> 15psi.

Tuned ECU and I think it would have cracked 170rwkw easily.

cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted

Can someone explain to me why -Joel's- dyno graphs are different in the way that the power curve is. The second graph seems to shoot up faster than the first ?

-Joel- were these runs done in 2 different gears, first run being 3rd a second run being 4th ?

:confused: - Or are these 2 differnt engines ?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

They are two different gears as I explained in the post.

I think the biggest reason why the first one looks a little less steep is because the bleeder was probably spiking a little through the mid range and settling on 12.5psi + the lower gear giving the impression it has more mid range.

The second dyno sat on a steady 1bar all the way through the power run and made peak power just over 7000rpm.

Its probably also got a little to do witht he ramp rate or something also as it was wheel spinning when coming on to boost even with a couple of people in the boot (crappy half bald 205's).

Theoretically running a car in different gear will yield a different looking power curve BUT the final power should be basically the same.

Emre Proficient

Emre

Posted
Posted
Can someone explain to me why -Joel's- dyno graphs are different in the way that the power curve is.

It's just the way they are scaled.

Look at the figures on the bottom and side of the graph.

The first one starts goes from 50 to 130 kmh and power is measured from 40 to 168kw.

The second graph is from 70 to 150 kmh and the power is from 70 to 165kw, but the kw axis is stretched.

If you scaled the kmh axis from 60 kmh to 160 kmh on the second graph, it would look like a very fat power curve.

  • 1 month later...
R31 POWER Mentor

R31 POWER

Posted
Posted

Apex'i PFC

Z32 AFM

GTR injectors

FMIC

Full exhaust

Pod

HKS GT2535

Stainless manifold

11 psi

It does'nt have the power because of low boost.

- Red lines are on 11psi with no boost controller conected.

- Green lines are with the shitty Turbo Smart boost controller connected and set at 16psi.As you can see boost is all over the place.

I hope to have 300rwhp once boost is turned up.

HYPER31%20214rwhp.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • GTSBoy
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      lights are on just the one click.  
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Absolutely matters because, while a temperature change will eventually reach a sensor at the end of a static line, the response time is far far far too slow to be useful. Might as well not have a temp gauge at all.
    • f00stx
      Anyone running the VQ37VHR with forced induction?

      By f00stx · Posted

      When I was eyeing off the 370GT (after deciding I didn't want to spend 30-40k+ to relive my early 20s in an R33) I thought it'd be a good project to add a turbo to it. Now that I have a 370GT, and I've had a couple of chances to open it up, I'm pretty stunned by how much power it makes 🫠 Honestly, the way the VVEL opens it up, it almost feels like there's a little turbo tucked away in there somewhere. It's like Nissan looked at VTEC and said "hold my beer" 😁 Has anyone thrown a turbo into their 370Z or 370GT? Is there a conservative boost level you can run without having to upgrade the fuel system, or are bigger injectors and a bigger pump a given?
×
×
  • Create New...