Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to advance the timing turn the cam angle sensor anti clockwise i cant give you an exact measurment of how far to move it but tri it so the washers on the bolts holding it in are just touching where the slots end ( i hope that made sence

I'm not a 100% sure but you turn it anti-clock wise to advance on the cas, but clock wise on a adjustable cam gear (which you dont have) Some one Correct Me please.

 

Use a protractor if you dont have anything and turn it a couple of Deg say 2 and take it for a spin. If your turn it too far you will loose power and your car will go no were so find the sweet spot. 

 

*********************************************************

        Remember it can kill your engine so be carful playing with your cas

 

 

:cheers:

Jun

thanks Cam, I'll standby on that 'correction' you requested. But sounds resonable,...surely if I texta marked my 'base' timing, then anti-clocked my cas by just 2 degrees (protracted), I couldn't do any damage. (I'd be gentle)...or maybe just ge t done by my mech.

True Adam nothing beats the power FC, but with the standard turbo and cooler and just the exhaust and some boost i couldn't justify the cost of a power FC if im not doing anymore mods.

to advance the timing turn the cam angle sensor anti clockwise i cant give you an exact measurment of how far to move it but tri it so the washers on the bolts holding it in are just touching where the slots end ( i hope that made sence

yes mate, I just ran out for a look, makes sense.

Yep mark your original timing spot.

Keep the boost reasonable eg: under 12psi

Take it for a strap and if it doesnt change then take it too mechanic. Dont want to risk taking your self to see the bank and getting money for a rebuild :D

:cheers:

Jun

Yep mark your original timing spot. 

 

Keep the boost reasonable eg: under 12psi

 

Take it for a strap and if it doesnt change then take it too mechanic. Dont want to risk taking your self to see the bank and getting money for a rebuild :D

 

:cheers:

Jun

roger that Cameron, I'll keep that boost under 12 pissants, go anti-clock on my cas by 2, go for a strap, see what happens! (I'll be careful, don't want to go back to the bank either!

youll be alright just listen for the knocking sound. but it probably is best for you to take it to your mechanic. if you were in the canberra area id tell you to drop in and i could do it for you right now

ah, you're ace! so are the rest of the skliner's here tonite! :cheers:

Guest Robo's

Just buy the first version of the SAFC for $300. Tuning is very easy!! Basically you just pull out fuel accross the rev range but do it on a dyno. Not only will your car be more econimical you will get a nice increase in power.

Sounds like a rattling/jingling of car key's. Hard to explain!:headspin: 

 

Let me know how it goes :D If your not back in 10 mins i know your walking home :wassup: :jk: 

 

:cheers: 

Jun

don't worry bro, I'm hittin the sack, tmrw is a new day though!!

later Cam.

Just buy the first version of the SAFC for $300.  Tuning is very easy!!  Basically you just pull out fuel accross the rev range but do it on a dyno.  Not only will your car be more econimical you will get a nice increase in power.

good price there, thanx Robo's.

Hey! I tried earlier tonite to adjust the cas (loosened the 3 bolts), as per what I'd said I would do earlier in this thread, and......I couldn't even budge it!! I was very cautious about the whole attempt, but the best I could manage, without the fear of breaking something) was a little forward movement ie.1-2 mm, but no rotational movement!!

I didn't want tobang it or anything, so I left it (did it bck up)..

Also Skliner's, I was told just before by some other experienced GTR/GTSt owner's that, quote...."it is a ridiculous concept that u'd want to advance timing when upping boost, it should be retarded if anything, and it won't even fix the over rich state u r presently in!!"..unquote. I understand the mixture part not being assisted (Band-aided maybe?)

CONFUSED i am!!

I am now thinking that it would be too good to be true, that some simple and safely done 'advancement' would overcome my present issues (lack of pull in higher gears, ace down low)....could someone please explain to me the basic concept of advancing/retarding the ignition in my car, for my particular issue(arguement FOR and AGAINST type thing?..anyways..

Thanx Skliner's, (DRFTR33, Cam etc...come back if u can?)

Mark

hey, i wont explain your issues, but with the CAS it probably wont budge because your not pushing hard enough...

try and use a piece of timber against the cas, and lightly tap the other end with a hammer to try and budge it, it will most probably move if u do this.

How did it go make any difference ?

Basically you said you were loosing power, this could because of your timing by advancing it you should gain power. - But advancing it with lots of boost is a silly idea correct. - I can cause detination. Also the standard ecu retards the ignition timing on hot days to stop detination so that may also be why you are loosing power. - Cooling system eg front mount intercooler if you dont have one this would be the first step I'd take.

Its alot easier to buy a apexi power FC ecu and tune the timing via that. More economical and you can moniter detination via the hand controler.

Its upto you, In my opinion i'd just leave it and do the basic modifications eg: exhaust, pod, dump pipe, intercooler and 11 psi boost. This way you will gain power and keep everything safe, inlet temps etc. - If you already havn't

:cheers:

Jun

the people who told you that it is rediculous to advance your timing have no idea what they are talking about

it is a built in safty feature in the standard ecu to retard the timing when you up the boost, but it doesnt just do it alittle bit like what you want, it does it alot

to combat the ecu retarding the timing to much you advance your base timing so it cancels it out to an extent

sometimes the crank angle sensors can be hard to turn but dont hit it with anything just undo the bolts a little more and pull it towards you and then it should come unstuck

How did it go make any difference ?

 

Basically you said you were loosing power, this could because of your timing by advancing it you should gain power. - But advancing it with lots of boost is a silly idea correct. - I can cause detination. Also the standard ecu retards the ignition timing on hot days to stop detination so that may also be why you are loosing power. - Cooling system eg front mount intercooler if you dont have one this would be the first step I'd take.

 

Its alot easier to buy a apexi power FC ecu and tune the timing via that. More economical and you can moniter detination via the hand controler.

 

Its upto you, In my opinion i'd just leave it and do the basic modifications eg: exhaust, pod, dump pipe, intercooler and 11 psi boost. This way you will gain power and keep everything safe, inlet temps etc. - If you already havn't

 

:(

Jun

Hey Cam, yeah, I just read DRFTR33 latest and yours, interesting stuff.

I couldn't actually do anything last nite cause I couldn't even get my CAS to budge (I was probably being 'over-careful', I'm not exactly weak!!).

So yeah, tonite I'll use a little more force, and give it a little twist, then monitor what's going on.

My car is modded quite extensively, the only thing I had to lose was the boost controler, police didn't like it in one of my many 'pull-overs!!'

Got POD, 4inch stainless zorst, highflow cat, about $4000 in racing suspension......and the standard ECU (which I must keep!!!).

I trust u guys, and I'm gunna do it then let u know what I find!!

Thanx Guys,

Mark. ;)

Ok, this thread's responses have taught me a couple of things!

Std ECU does run rich, naturally, especially with increased boost.

Therefore, I'd have to replace ECU to fix this issue, properly.

Just 1 degree advance in timing vastly improves the 2-3rd gear acceleration. (doesn't 'bog-down' like before, as much)

Just a degree or 2 more can add even more performance, and a nice 'rattle' sound.

(don't worry Cam and DFTR33, I didn't lunch the motor, thankyou!!)

So I'm at apprx 1 degree advance from 'base-time', and I'm happy with that, cost me nothing to do, and it 'seems' quite safe.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now, should I spend money on......WOLF 3D ECU, SAFC (add-on ?), or front mount IC.

I'm in Melbourne, which of these are ILLEGAL, and if they are, can I get an 'engineer's certificate' to stay safe?

Thankyou.

I'd get a frontmount intercooler to keep the inlet temps down so when you run higher boost you arent at more risk of damaging your engine.

After that i'd go Power FC its plug & play and user friendly. Wolf 3D are plug and play aswel but you ca get pfc & h/c for $1150 atm.

Then get it tuned properly.

:P

Jun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...