Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a problem with my GTR which a quick poll with some other GTR owners might help narrow down the answer.

My car is an August 89 R32 model, which is apparently running an ECU from the Feb 93 R32 (using PLMS and Nissan Data Scan).

My chassis number is around the BNR-002600 mark, but the Engine Number is in the low 37700 range (eg RB26 037700A).

I'd really like to know what car (r32, R33 R34) this particular motor is out of, so I can work out some funky wiring, ECU voltages, and the sensors I shoudl have vs do have. I've got detonation going, dead o2 sensors and and exhaust and AAC valves that lock up the scanning software. I need to get it working correctly, and to do that I need to know what my car is likely to be and what I can look for (comapre part numbers etc).

If you own a GTR, and you're pretty sure your engine is genuine, would like to hear your:

- Build date as YYMM (eg 9302)

- Approx Engine number (rounded up or down to the nearest 10 will do)

- Car series (r32, R33 etc)

This will help me narrow down when my engine was built, and in turn will help me make sure I buy the correct sensors for my car. I don't really want to bugger another set of turbines.

Unless of course anyone can reverse lookup an engine number and trace it back to a car?

Cheers, and TIA

John

Got any pictures of the engine bay ?

 

I'm sure the guys with the Nissan Fast software can help you out. :wavey:

No pictures handy. It's not a red cover, so not R34.

Nissan Fast doesn't cover Engine Numbers (AFAIK - I've got it).

Mine is similar, its a 92 build car but seems to have 94 R32 or R33 running gear in it. A quick possible check is, on the left hand side of the engine bay (looking at the car from front on) look down where the oil filter is. The early (pre 94 R32's) have alot of hydraulic lines and HICAS pump stuffed in there, whereas the 94 R32's and R33's dont (or so ive been told - they have an electronic hicas pump under the car).

I cant confirm the accuracy of this information, but it seems to fly as another genuine 1994 model I checked also didnt have the hicas pump and lines there, but an earlier 91 model did.

No pictures handy. It's not a red cover, so not R34.

Nissan Fast doesn't cover Engine Numbers (AFAIK - I've got it).

Have a look at the oil cap. If its star like shape its an R32 Engine if not its a R33.

Thats the only way i've been able to identify the R32 from R33 :) - easiest way.

:wavey:

:)

Jun

Thanks for your replies so far.

MY chassis is an R32 so the HICAS suff will be under the engine. Mind you something powers up under the car's rear when ignition is turned on (not fuel pump) so I might have a look tonight. An oil filler cap can be changed and isn't a reliable piece of information.

Still looking for solid information :

If you own a GTR, and you're pretty sure your engine is genuine, would like to hear your:

- Build date as YYMM (eg 9302)

- Approx Engine number (rounded up or down to the nearest 10 will do)

- Car series (r32, R33 etc)

This will help me narrow down the engine range. It could have been bare-blocked for all I know, so Engine Number to build date comparison is the only way to go

well i know 45400 is a 1994 so i worked out that 37700 is a 93

So you are saying that you have a 1994 R32, with an engine number around 45400. And the motor appears to be be genuine? What month/year of build? These dates are critical to narrowing down variants in sensors etc. A guess of 1993 doesn't help me (much) as there were at least two variants in 93

i have 1994 model BNR32 GTR, chassis no. bnr32-313761....

engine is BNR34 N1 so i cant help you with the engine vs chassis number comparisson.

One major difference between the two is that 93 onwards gtr's have a pull type clutch, 89-92 have a push type clutch. Just have a look on the drivers side of the bellhousing where the clutch for sits and you will know if you are running an early model driveline. From there it will be hard to know if the actual engine has been changed.

From what i have seen in the past, most japanse conversions to 33 series engine includes the driveline which includes the better rear diff (heavily finned) etc etc...something you could check.

Barring all that, just ring up any Nissan dealership and they will tell you what chassis the engine number will match.

TG

So you are saying that you have a 1994 R32, with an engine number around 45400. And the motor appears to be be genuine?   What month/year of build? These dates are critical to narrowing down variants in sensors etc.  A guess of 1993 doesn't help me (much) as there were at least two variants in 93

no i dont have a 94 gtr ,

we have a 95 ( may ) engine number 55xxx and a 97 ( feb ) eng number 63xxx and i know someone else has r33 95 ( march)51xxx and i know 45000 is a late r32 engine (94 ) but cant help you with a month .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...