Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Today i got my car re dyno tuned after running BP Ultimate into it for 3 weeks. The car was previously tuned on Optimax and made 218 rwkw @12psi which was still pretty impressive.

Here is the Original Thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=50725

The cars performance mods are as followed:

r33 GTS25T 95' Series 1.5

T3/T4 HighFlow VL Turbo

GTR Front Mount Intercooler

GTR Fuel Pump

Apexi S-AFCII

GReddy Profec B Boost Controller

3" Exhaust Turbo Back

HighFlow Cat

MegaFlow Muffler Twin 2" Tip

K & N Pod Filter

Irodium Spark Plugs

Blitz Open-Atmosphere BOV

Brass Button Clutch

Locked Diff

9.5" Wide Rear Works Rims

BP Ultimate 98 Octane Fuel

Stock RB25DET engine.

Stock Headgasket, Injectors, Cams etc.

Here are the new results :cheers:

dyno_7.10.04.jpg

I was extremely impressed with these results with the fuel being leaned out even more in this tune. A 12 rwkw gain from simply a different fuel & leaner tune.

Boost maxed out @ 12psi as you can see & was down to 10psi @ 230 rwkw due to the boost controller & internal wastegate.

The next step will be Power FC & some injectors, up the boost to say 18psi - 20psi & i should then be up for some for some f*** off power :P heheh

Cheers,

It was 29

The Optimax Dyno sheet is here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=50725

Yep, that makes sense.

Optimax, ambient temperature 25 degrees, inlet temperature 29 degrees

Ultimate, ambient temperature 25 degrees, inlet temperature 56 degrees

genor80r what does pulse do for u or is this first reading u have ever had - dont get me wrong that is a top power figure even if it was , just wanna know more about pulse and where u been with your skyer , to be so proud-newcastle

:thumbsup:mobil senergy8000 fuel nothing but guys-tested and proven

Be very carefull with 12 to 1 a/f ratios. If you get a dirty injector or your full pump starts to ware you could lean out to far. 12 to 1 does not allow any room for a buffer. I have mine just under 12 to 1...

Correct me if I am wrong guys, if so then I am back to the dyno to lean out...

You betcha.  Read mods @ start of thread, SAFCII is the piggy back ECU.

Here's the other Dyno graph too.

dyno_7.10.04_afr.jpg

Yep, that makes sense.  

Optimax, ambient temperature 25 degrees, inlet temperature 29 degrees

Ultimate, ambient temperature 25 degrees, inlet temperature 56 degrees

LOL well that just proves that there really ISENT a difference between the fuels.

Next comparision?

LOL well that just proves that there really ISENT a difference between the fuels.

Well with Optimax the car couldnt be tuned any more than 218 rwkw with 12psi due to pinging, the tune was maxed out for 12psi. The new tune with the better fuel allowed for a leaner tune which resulted in 230 rwkw. The temperate was hotter on 230rwkw yet still putting out more power with a leaner tune. If the IT was even cooler *ie, was 29* i cant see why i wouldnt get an even larger rwkw. Please correct me if i am wrong.

Cheers,

No, if the IT on the 230 run was set at 29 like the other run you would have got a lower power reading. Shootout compensates for differences in ambient temperatures, so if on the 230 run the IT was chaged to 76 degrees you would have got a higher reading than 230 coz its compensating for the apparent higher intake temperature, coz the hotter the air the less dense it is and the less power you will make in the real world

Ok fair enoughs INSTANT. The difference in IT temperature was 29 degree's, to how much rwkw difference that would make i dont know, but i might talk to the tuner today & see what he says.

This IT business is a learning experience for me, now you say the higher IT temp will give a higher rwkw on the dyno spit out.

Now just so i have this right, lets say the AT was 25 & the IT was 150 degrees & the car was making 200 rwkw on dyno rollers. The dyno then makes the final readout for rwkw much higher than 200 rwkw because 150 degrees is very hot & a cooler temperate would give more power rwkw. To what temperature does the computer work out it to be to get the final Max power reading? I'd love to know how this all works exactly.

This is a PM from Sydneykid to me.

Hi, the A/F ratios are great, good results from the SAFC and the tuner obviously knows his stuff.

The temperature comment refers to the differences in the inlet temperature when the ambient temperature is the same. Maybe you should ask the tuner, it may be something simple like the Optimax run was done with the bonnet open and the Ultimate run was done with the bonnet closed. Or maybe he had the dyno fan in a slightly different position.

What I am trying to do is to get the guys on the forum to really analyse the results. ALL of the information on a dyno printout is important and you must look at ALL of it so you get a valid comparison. You can not simply look at the power result and say wow that's better.

Hope that help

Cheers,

Ok fair enoughs INSTANT. The difference in IT temperature was 29 degree's, to how much rwkw difference that would make i dont know, but i might talk to the tuner today & see what he says.

This IT business is a learning experience for me, now you say the higher IT temp will give a higher rwkw on the dyno spit out.  

Now just so i have this right, lets say the AT was 25 & the IT was 150 degrees & the car was making 200 rwkw on dyno rollers.  The dyno then makes the final readout for rwkw much higher than 200 rwkw because 150 degrees is very hot & a cooler temperate would give more power rwkw.  To what temperature does the computer work out it to be to get the final Max power reading?  I'd love to know how this all works exactly.

This is a PM from Sydneykid to me.

Cheers,

Look at it this way, if the tuner did some work on ur car and wanted to show you how much power you have gained from his work, when i reality he didnt do didly squat, he can place the temp probe for the IT on the exhaust manifold and do the dyno run. So the actual intake air going into the engine could be 30 degrees but since the IT probe is reading 150 degrees the computer will give you a higher reading to compensate for the apparent higher intake temp it thinks there is.

Shootout is meant to used so that you can compare the power a car makes in the desert to another car in antartica, but its very easy to bs results 2.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...