slow_r31

During the normal year crown run a 100 buy in multi-table tournaments on thursday nights, they normally get a few hundred people. These will resume again after January On sunday's they run a 60 (off memory) multitable tournament. Mon-Wed, and Saturday morning they run 50/75/115 10 person sit and go's (once they get 10 people they start one). During January for Aussie Millions Crown is going to be hectict, with events and satelleites on everyday, so if you want to play again soon, try squeeze in before new year. Leewah, seeing as I spend quite alot of time at the poker tables, I really gotta work out who you are

don't fit a rb20det, whatever u do. if your poor just basic mods to the rb30, exahust, extractors, twin tb/xf throttle body, intake, should see a couple more kw's. if u got money, bolt on a vl-t conversion, or drop in a rb25det, don't waste your money on a rb20det. 175,000k's is NOTHING on rb30e, it will be hardly even run in yet

did u open the throttle body (foot flat on the accelerator), whil doing the test?

The Whole PURPOSE of AGREED value is exactly that as Ash has stated. If you only have market value insurance on your car then the sale price could be used inidicative of the car condition. But if u have agreed value, thats it, simple, doesn't matter if u paid a dollar for the car.

whats the deal with the tailshaft was it a custom job, or was there a nice nissan factory item that fitted

was just some tongue in cheek stirring, nothing meant by it, i acutlaly thought u used c16 for that time, my bad. the point with the r31 times was just an example that rb30E bottom end is just as strong and can take just as much power. im sure there are examples both ways however. i have a RB30E+T, its done 200,000k's, gives me 10L/100k's fuel economy, has shit loads of torque and makes ~160rwkw everyday. both motors are reliable, and ull make your 180rwkw on stock turbo/injectors, the only real difference is slight cost difference, and the feel of the motor go for a drive in both and see which u like, the torque of the 30, or the revabilitly of the 25.

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How many rb25's blow up their ringlands at 250rwkw, vs rb30's that still have stock internals that survive at that power? why is it that the top few spots of the r31 club have 100% STOCK rb30E bottom ends, except for a rb25 with forgies and gtr rods that can't even make top spot on c16 and semi's hehe

les @ exhaust worx in bayswater

nice work on organising this Leewah, this is an excellent opportunity guys to get into poker and have a laugh then head out to your usual friday spot, without having to play till 4am and lose all your money like i did last night . The more poker players we get in melbourne, the better!!

sorry mate but u can't racce in improved production with a 180sx with a rb25det, change from 4 to 6 cylinder is not allowed. if you've never done track stuff before, do some track days man, best way to get a feel, have a chat to the guys u meet there, most are pretty friendly and you'll have a ball in the process.

if u put in a rb26, you can either keep the rb26 gtr cooler and use pods, or upgrade the rb26 cooler and keep the GTR AIRBOX

cams? coil packs? loom? cam gears? rocker covers?

if your asking if you should replace the headgasket, id be questioning your ability to complete the build. but none the less, if you read ONE post up from yours you'll get your answer about the oil pump, auto will bolt up yes.

oops, thought in that essay i would of included 8.5k

Item: R31 Skyline Turbo Location: Melbourne Reason for Selling: Change of priorties Contact Details: PM me if your seriously interested. R31 Skyline Turbo 1988 Series 2 R31 Skyline GXE Light Blue (Sky Blue i think its called) Paint in VGC 180,000k's Dark Blue Interior GC Rb30E+T T03 Turbo from VL Retains 9.0 Compression (original RB30E bottom end) 3.7 Ratio LSD 5 Speed Manual Exedy Xtreme Heavy Duty Clutch 600x300x76 FMIC (with Polished 304 Stainless Piping) Full 3" Exhuast from Turbo including 3" Highflow cat Turbotech boost controller @ ~11psi A/M Boost Guage A/M Water Temp Gauge Custom Oil Catch Can S3 Front Bar Custom lower Front lip/spoiler. Huge Stereo -JVC SX 995 Head Unit -Boston Rally RC60 Splits -Audiobahn A4075HCQ (retailed at 1800 when purchased) -Pair of Clarion 6x9 3-way (Rear Fill) -2x Custom Total Recoil modified Blaupunkt Over-drive subs (old large magnet version), triple spiders and all the other good bits. Brakes Front -300zx Rotors and Calipers -300zx Strut Assembly (100mm caliper mount) -Firepower Pads (imported from US) Rear -Brand New DBA Rotors -EBC Green-stuff Pads Suspension Front -Shocks - KYB Shocks -Springs - Lowered King Springs (ride height of about 110-115mm with a couple of people in the car) Rear -Shocks - Monroes -Rear Springs - Lowered Kings -Twin Rear Swaybar setup Change of priorties in life and looking to get a cheap pos and save money etc towards house/investments so the "toy" needs to go. Ideally would consider swap for lesser value car+cash.

if 20k is absolute limit, get a cheaper 33 or 32 and have some money left over for things that break, cause they will break something, and if u can't afford to fix, always fun

everyone is pretty cool, i know i had a few dumb c*** moments, the dealers are pretty good, like they'll tell you if its your call/check, and they'll tell u when u need to put out blinds etc so as long as your willing to learn a lil, you could easy pick it up on the spot as your going.

Ahh good to hear we have some more fellow players. entry fee goes up to 100 next week ive just discovered :|, starting to get a bit rich. We were there to the end as 2 of us (not me thou) made final table, 10th and 4th. i bummed out around 90 in similar circumstances to Leewah Pocket 6's while short stacked and blind approaching. Needless to say that the 2 of us that placed well were very excited/happy considering it was the first real tournament they had entered. So anyone that has douts cause they haven't played a tournament before, you still have a big chance! Always interesting when your mates are on the same table thou, as you don't want to call/put them all in so its a welcome relief if you get split up tables and they aren't on the same table.

does anyone else here play thursday night poker, went down tonight with 4 friends, 2 of them did really well, was an awesome night. anyone that's never played in a real tournament before, highly recommend, only 75 buy-in, bout 250people, and top 30 places payed. makes for an awesome night out. btw was anyone else there tonight (thursday)

what happened is the engine over boosted, the ecu detected the rush of air and overfueled the motor. your bad idle is b/c of all the extra fuel that the car dumped when it overboosted has fouled your plugs

blind elk, what you said is 100% true, however if you look at your master cylinder and braking hydralic system you will notice that it is actually a dual circuit, and split front to rear. thus the pressure in the front circuit is unrelated to the pressure in the rear circuit, this is incase of a leak in one part of the system to retain pressure (and thus braking) in the other part.

its because of your front brake upgrade the total surface area of your front brake pistons has increased, thus for a given pedal displacement the front brake pistons are going to be pushed less distance. when u push the pedal x distance, its pushing the front brake pistons xy distance, and the rear xz distance, where y < z. simple solution is an adjustable brake bias valve, or possibly different master cylinder from a car with larger front brakes. sorry for the unconcise explanation, hope it can help

yeh but the ute has leaf springs in the rear, and heaps of weight in the front (v8, and light rear). all things being equal the ute is always going to be at a disadvantage

at the risk of asking the odvious if it was leaking oil, did it leak out ALL the oil and seize the motor? if your mechanic was driving it and KNEW it had a oil leak, and drove the car until it ran out of oil, which caused the engine to sieze you could have a case.