slow_r31

sky031, sorry but it is a roadworthy issue The rules for roadworthy as I am sure you are aware are covered by the ADR's and VSI sheets. VSI sheet 8 section 12 paragraph 4 "There must be no escape path for exhaust gases other than the exhaust outlet, AND the vehicle must continue to comply with the noise emission standards applicable to it. " (direct quote taken from VICROADS website, http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrne/vrnav....A256B5F007AE7F3) If the vehicle failed to comply with noise emmission standards it is in violation of this paragraph, which makes it non compliant to the VSI sheet specifications, thus unroadworthy. Regardless of the excuses, the mechanic should of never issued that roadworthy without proof that the exhuast system complied with noise emmisions. The onus was on either the mechanic or the person that provided the car to the mechanic to have proof, by not having this proof and still issuing the RWC could be considered at the very least negligent, expanding to fraud if your keen. In terms of civil liabilites you could consider attempting to reclaim any fines issues in regards to the exhuast that he declared roadworthy, however this would be difficult as the burden of proof would be on you to prove that the exhuast system was fitted to the car at the time the RWC was issued. In the end it probably isnt worth it. However you could inform Vicroads of the matter, they are extremely strict on dodgy RWC's being issued.

NO, but the place that issued the RWC when he bought the car should of ensured the car was legal, is this not the purpose of a RWC, one of the check items is modifications. If he was given a RWC when purchasing the car then surely the mechanic that issued the RWC is somewhat at fault. (assuming the exhuast was the same volume then)

already covered in this thread back a few pages in lots of detail, pretty sure the major diff is the OS rb30 uses the rb26 block, and the nissan rb30 uses the rb30 block. but as said look back a fair few pages

the later

in regars to the original post, "self preservation" is a valid defence, and the onus then becomes on the police to prove that you werent commiting the offence to protect yourself. im not a lawyer so take this with a pinch of salt and go speak to a real lawyer

to be honest, it sounds like the thrust bearing to me, making the noise in neutral with the clutch out, and then going away with the clutch in, i normally associate this with thrust bearing anyway

r31's handle like boats with 20yearold suspension, and from the sounds of your posts, your gonna wanna drive it sik and thrash the crap out of it in general. so if u have 2.6k left over spend 1k on the suspension, 300 on some decent brakes (new rotors and decent pads), and keep 1k for broken things (in 6months you'll find out if your car brakes lots of things, or nothing at all) spend the other 300 new timing belt, new oil, new plugs, new coolant, (new 02 sensor if the existing one is stuffed, like most are, if you don't replace this and yours is stuffed you can enjoy 16-20L per 100k's type economy, instead of 10L/100k) thats the sensible but boring thing to do the fun thing to do, turbo your current motor, can be done for about 1.2k (DIY) 3" exhuast 600 FMIC 800 thats a fun way of spending 2.6k, but bluntly you'll kill yourself if your new to driving and kill yourself twice if you have stock suspension/brakes

i think he used the s13 rack, and thus the s13 arms/knuckles etc theres a thread made about it in general discussion on the r31 site

increasing the temperate of the inlet air will decrease power, because the air is less dense, and more prone to detonation. how shootout mode works is to remove all the "variables", so a desert and antartica run are the same so when the air temperature increases, the computer calcualtes the effect that the change in temp would have, and adjusts the power readings to suit, ditto humidity etc. by faking the IT temperature, u make the computer think that the car running in antartica is realy running in the desert, so it will increase the power reading to compensate for the power "lost" from the higher IT temperatures i tink the power from temp formula was like 3-5deg = 1% power? can't remember

lol, nothing like fiddling with the shootout mode paramaters to make the customer happy with the tuning result

good old respraying, friends r31 we are sanding back/bogging/derusting etc atm got paint/thinners/harders already for it paint is 2pac basically, to spray the outside only of the car (no door jam's, engine bay etc) whats the damage going to be $$$ wise for the labour to spray it? any ideas/recommendations? also for the panels that are still perfect, how far back should they be sanded, should it all be taken back to bare metal, or just to the undercoat? just knock off the clear coat (or the little thats left of it)?

2 things, is the turbo internal gate? he may not sign off on it cause its external gate which isn't legal AFAIK 2nd thing, for the cat problem, just use a pair of 3" highflow cats, easier and cheaper than a big $$$$ 4" true highflow cat, just need some exhuast piping magic done

could be an exhaust leak, the noise band may be resonance. i had that problem with a noise band of about 100rpm around 2.2k with a leaking exhuast flange

then how did you get this one?

sorry to hear mate, maybe if you posted the engine number it would help people identify it if they saw something suspicous

According to the last enginner I spoke to they are illegal; To the best of my knowledge the reason is that they can be adjusted easily to make them "pass" epa style tests, and changed once you drive out the door. I think this is a case of vicroads illegal vs epa illegal which gets cloudy at times. A vented back into intake BOV will pass vicroads normally, but fail epa because its not factory. I'm not an engineer or vicroads or epa tester, so I can't tell you for certain. Even if that was not true, the price for an approved emmisions testing is rediculous last time i checked, a simple engineers certificate for 500dollars normally doesn't cover the nessesary emmisions testing that I would imagine would be needed to approve an aftermarket ecu. ive sent you a pm SIR-JD regarding a possible workaround for the ECU situation.

SIR-JD, considering aftermarket ECU's are illegal, you have SFA chance of someone signing it off with the motec

sorry i didn't mean to attack you personally, but re-reading my previous post its odvious that i did, ive had a bad week my apologises best of luck with getting the car on the road

I don't understand why you mentioned the above unless it was to compliment how GOOD the police force is. you were breaking the law, he didnt book you, he checked if your car was stolen that is a GOOD thing, which if your GTR ever gets stolen im sure you'll realise. You say it gives you the shits, get over is all I can say, if a simple check like this shits you, then all i can say, is don't own or drive a car.

but the undercover TOG 5 metres up the road on the radio to the people conducting the RBT can defect

increase the ignition timing, run a cold-air feed up to the airbox lid, and then start saving

shit im lucky then, i was gonna go home that way and get fuel from there, but went a different way instead.

all r31's have series II blocks. not sure about which vl's have em

behind a half decent rb30DET, i would give the aus series 3 auto prehaps 10minutes of life. if you want an auto, either jatco (vl, vl-t, series 1&2 r31) and get it rebuilt and strengthened, or get a trimatic and also get it strengthened. no idea about the later model auto's.

i havent seen the video yet, but if what the others said that it was just interlace lines through it, then download virtual dub and apply de-interlace (blend fields), and the lines will disappear