Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 176
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I dont get it... if you (or someone) are willing to buy the $300 file... cant you just run the group buy and make up your costs depending on the number of orders - as was originally stated in the first post of this whole thread??? It stated that costs to set this up would be shared by the people in the group buy on top of the cost of the daughterboard...

I'm confused.... I think I'll just stay out of it if its not that simple - to hard for my brain :)

Cool - I'll leave it to you guys - but I'm happy to pay a bit more (10 people = $30 bucks more) if it means not having to wait another 6 months (been that long since this thread started) - buts thats just my opinion :P

Good work though - may sound like Im sh*tty but Im not - just used to group buys not taking so long to get off the ground... I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end!

:)

yeah if you can post it that would help in the mentime in terms of me trying something with disassembly ... until we can get another binary out of Eds to upload to his daughterboard. the binary size needs to be 64K since 32K seems too small (like not all the code is there)

dr_drift did you just upload the 64K image straight out of consult (nissandatascan or whatever program) and burn it split it even/odd into the two 27C512 EPROMs (or emulators?)

Hmm, my .bin dump is also only 32K - does that mean not all of it is downloading?

on the consult side of things not 100% sure. if you cant read any ROM addresses &H8000 upwards (say in &H1000 byte steps) then i guess so but it doesn't seem right. for example on another type of HR34 from russia the H8/539 im finding is 128k big so no chance consult can't read it all without some modification to manually page the 16K memory blocks external to the MCU

this is for the ER34/WC34 only daughterboard

NSX10AA - Installation method is the solder attaching (1.78 pitch). ROM 2 uses 27C512.

Entry system is SKIP (the identical data). Being there is no odd number even number appointment, it is easy to use, is. As for connector cable solder attaching end (installation screw attachment) Priceis 5000Yen. Corresponding model ER34 (skyline) turbo car

WC 34 (the latter term) turbo car

so for this (and the multiboard also) ER34/WC34 required 2 x 27C512 (8bit x 64K) in which the image is duplicated and simulates 16bits on the databus.

being a board taking 64K in size i would think indicate requiring a 64K image out of consult? most other images have some vector addresses and blanks at the end of the image, this one doesnt.

wonder what size 'normal' data is from Grid? hopefully im wrong here and the current 32K image fits into the 64K EPROMs somehow?

i need an attempt to read the rest of the address space from consult to see if anything there just in case

Guys, we are still trying to sort things out.

If you can't wait, you can buy the table for $300AUD if you really are in that much of a rush.

Can you post a link to where you can buy the table? I've done a bit of a search but haven't found it..

I'll chip in $50 for the Address Table.... no worries.... who else?

I'm in. In fact, I'm happy to organise it (If someone will tell me where they are getting that $300 quote from! :-)

Have we got 4 more people who want to put $45 in?

I'll keep a List here (by editing this post -

1) dr_drift

2) ian

3) ed

4) Gary2

5) Neo_R34

6) Coxy_

7) ?

Ian

AUSTRALIAN AGENT FOR GRID!

Teruaki Yoshida

Yoshida Shouten Pty Ltd

phone 0414550991

www.yoshidashouten.com.au

[email protected]

He's a top guy to deal with, but doesn't speak very good english, e-mail is most certaily the best way to go. His grammar is quite funny so I'm certain he;s using a b-grade automatic translator lol.

Sam

Hi - I am interested and would chip in a share of the table cost - but before committing Id appreciate a recap from someone in the know of where we would be at once we get the table... this is my guess - so correct me please:

Once the table is bought and supplied to tuners who want it (eg Dr Drift; Ken @ Hyperdrive etc) we'll be READY TO GO for tiptronic and manual R34 Neo6 Skylines and Stageas - nothing else needed??

So probably something like...

1. One trusting person here buys the table - Ian or Ed? (with knowedge that at least a few of us will chip in a share of it eg $50, even if no-one else signs up) and they (or someone else) runs the group buy (makes copies of table info and all other needed tuning info etc to bundle up and post off with the daughterboards.

2. Suggestion: Restart a new Group Buy thread coz i bet a lot of R34 owners have given up on this one and havent popped back in a while - so one with a new title like "R34 Daughterboards by May 05 - ready to go so Sign Up now!"

3. Once sign-ups complete divide the total signups to share cost of table

4. Add cost of daughterboard - how much is this likely to be now by the way? - first post said $135AUD - but some posts since then talk about a new daughterboard etc

5. Take full payment and place order

6. Post them out with copies of table and all other info needed for tuning

7. Get fitted and tuned approx $500

8. Drive around with a much improved ECU set-up :devil:

If someone that knows more about this than me can either correct me or confirm we are ready to go once the table is bought - and all up I am going to be up for say around $750 (board shipped say $200 + table share costs $30->$50 + fit and tune $500) then count me in :P

:D

Ian, you can get the rom and address table from the australian agent that Sam listed.

I'll put in $50 too.

Brazen, that $135 included shipping for 1 board I'm sure shipping would be the same or a couple $ more if we get say 5 or more boards.

What I'll do is start a new group buy thread in a moment where the number of people participating chip in evenly for the rom + address table.

How does that sound?

Hi Ed

I've chipped in to help (so to speak) as I suspect this project has been going around in circle for a bit too long.. :-)

Off on a tangent, the grid emulators don't look to expensive either ie

http://www.grid.co.jp/en/prod/prod257.htm :-)

Back to this project -

My understanding of this daughterboard is that it will efectively replace the on board ROM chips. However, changes to the EEPROM on board will have to be done out of circuit ie unplug them, re blow them, and then put them back in. Is this correct?

Ian

I am still interested in furthering this project, even though i have sold off most of the bits i bought to upgrade the car when this project was initiated....so guys if you need some cash or other help just let me know....

Cheers,

Michael

I notice that http://www.925style.com/editor_direct.html has gone off the air - which doesn't bother me too much IF we can get the Map specs - as I'll write my own program to modify a map.. (I'm sure you'll all want a copy.. :-)

Looking at the Grid site (ie http://www.grid.co.jp/en/index.htm) I can't find either a link to by the map specification, or a link to find the daughterboard this thread is discussing. Would you like to post them?

On another note again, couldn't we just unsolder the ROM chips on the ECU, replace them with sockets, and burn chips and put them in? Why do we need the daughterboard?

I can find where they list the binary files you can use in their software (ie http://www.grid.co.jp/prod/HP040609.txt), and interestingly, it lists for the R34 -

[R34]

| | - 34MB-09K

| | - 34MB-UP

| | - AA560.N1

| | - AA560.N2

| | - ACCESS.DAT

| | - BOOSTUP.GTR

| | - EXET.CON

| | - GTR.1

| | - GTR34.NOR

| | - R34A5100.BIN

| | - R34AA500.09K

| | - R34AA500.11K

| | - R34AA500.12K

| | - R34AA500.1K

| | - R34AA500.BIN

| | - R34T.NOR

Ian, the daughterboard simply let's the ECU read from the ROM that is on the daughterboard (rom board) instead of the factory rom's that are directly soldered on to the ECU.

If only things were as simple as putting on a socket :rofl:

I just went to http://www.bikirom.com/ - which where I think you said (earlier in this post) that you got the board from (not Grid as I said above). This project 1) looks to have come quite a way since this thread started, 2) is capable of real time updates, 3) is still being finished...

The early boards that started this thread aren't what is now being used, and the new boards 1) aren't available yet, 2) come with software, so we may not need to buy the MAP (his details on software are that great, so we still might need to..)

Ian

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...