Jump to content
SAU Community

03/1995 R33 GTR V-Spec

go_nuts
 Share

Recommended Posts

go_nuts Enthusiast

go_nuts

Posted
Posted

By the looks of it, my R isn't the only one being offloaded at the moment so I know my chances are pretty slim but I'll give it a shot anyway. If it sell it sells but if it doesn't then I'll just keep it till I come home. Reason for sale - unexpected career advancement that means I need head overseas so I'll have to pack my bags and go. Update - I don't need to leave as soon as originally hence the price rise as it's not so urgent anymore.

I'm not chasing unrealistic money, in fact, the opening price is barely enough to import one, comply it then register it so I think it is fair for the buyer and fair for me. Hey, it's a win-win situation: you pay less than what it's worth while I get more than what wholesale would've given me.

Here's the nitty gritty stuff

GTR Series 1 V-Spec 03/1995 (according to FAST)

97k km

Power @ wheels: no idea at the moment, will go grab a dyno run at Unigroup in the coming weeks when I got the time

Resprayed in light silver with lilac pearls

Twin Airbag

Twin Plate Ogura Racing Clutch/Flywheel

Aftermarket Front Pipes

HKS EVC 3 Boost Control

Nismo fuel pressure regulator

Z32 AFM's

Aftermarket fuel rail

Twin HKS green mushrooms

Trust dumps

Nismo 600cc injectors

HKS Turbo Timer (the previous version from the current)

HKS "Priest" exhaust 3" from the cat back

Aragosta coilovers with Eibach springs

17" wheel (not the factory one, will get the name off it tomorrow)

Bit of history - purchased as a grade 3.5 car from Japan back in late Jan/early Feb, couldn't scrap enough money for the rest of the process so it sits there in Japan until mid March. Got here in April and complied/plated in June. Got most of the documents here and there. I almost forgot, there's those compliance Falken boots which have done 3km so if the buyer wants them, feel free to take it or will deduct them from the price.

There are areas which need some attention - the hand brake and gearshift boots are rooted and the stereo (just the head unit) disappeared. There's also couple of minor dents here and there but nothing major but I may repair it as part of the deal if I feel the price is reasonable.

Comes with rego until June 2005 (NSW) and warranty can be purchased on your behalf if desired but of course you'll fork out for it. Price - $38,000 negotiable of course.

I can be contacted via PM or e-mail to bcnr33gtr @ optusnet com au (assemble that up and send me an e-mail).

To answer a few potential questions:

/rant

* Does the rear diff have fins? Yes.

* Is the car immaculate? I wouldn't say immaculate but it's in very good nick with a few blemishes such as the dings mentioned. FFS it's almost a 10 year old car then how can you expect there's not a ding anywhere?

* Is it aftermarket intercooler? No I didn't mention it. It doesn't look like it either.

/end of rant (there's too many idiots..)

EDIT: Pictures are in the Carsales ad

Trade-in welcome..well depending on the trade too of course :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53132-031995-r33-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites
go_nuts Enthusiast

go_nuts

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bump. I'll just keep playing with it till I leave/it sells.

EDIT: doesn't looks like it will move at all at $38990, now drop back to $35000 to see if it sells. Remember, I WILL TAKE TRADE.

EDIT #2: will trade for a Mini Cooper S in fact...lol.

MasTeR_P Apprentice

MasTeR_P

Posted
Posted
Bump. I'll just keep playing with it till I leave/it sells.

EDIT: doesn't looks like it will move at all at $38990, now drop back to $35000 to see if it sells. Remember, I WILL TAKE TRADE.

EDIT #2: will trade for a Mini Cooper S in fact...lol.

worth a shot....$29K?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...