Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just had to post something on this.

Couple of weeks ago, I visited Evo R in search of a GTR ignit key, I know it's just a key, but I wanted one. So turned out it would cost $120 and take three weeks coming from Japan. So I picked myself up off the floor and left.

I was recently back as Evo R to find that it now costs $140 with the same wait. Stood up again and walked out.

So I called Nissan who said that they could get one, it was $41 something and was silver in colour. Figured it couldn't be too bad so said to get me one. Came in the next working day and picked it up today. IT"S THE SAME KEY!!!! The one Evo was trying to flog for $140.00!!!

So now I'm so pleased with myself, and if any fellow GTR owners are interested, $41.39 through Nissan.

Photo attached. I know, it's just a key. But I like it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5320-gtr-ignition-key/
Share on other sites

Yeah, bit bigger than I would have chosen, but it was already in the car so.......

It's a Boomerang Alpha something, it's a two way tranceiver meaning you not only send a lock/unlock command to the car, but should someone breach the security, it will actually page you by beeping and vibrating as long as the car is within a 1.2 km range. Mine seems to be more like 150m though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5320-gtr-ignition-key/#findComment-81253
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Gumby

I think the key profile for a GTS-T is the same, you can actually buy the same key with Nismo on it instead of GTR.  But don't think you'll get it through Nissan.  Evo R has the Nismo version on display.

You should be able to get the Nismo key from Nissan. The guy at the local Nissan dealer did me a second GTR key for 40bucks too & if your key has a serial number on it they can cut it at the same time:D & it should suit all Skylines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5320-gtr-ignition-key/#findComment-81333
Share on other sites

For those wondering about the alpha, I don't know what they're worth as the unit was already installed in the car when I bought it. I believe they are available from 'In Car Options' in Melbourne, search the web and it should list some other dealers.

Basically, the pager uses the same transmission signal as the alarm notification, that is, it only communicates on its own discrete RF frequency. There is a little module stuck on the inside of the windscreen which reads "tap to page", and tapping the spot triggers my handheld which alerts me and says "CALL!" So no, I don't actually pay anything.

Don't know a great deal about the unit as a user manual was not supplied. I do know it does some of the following.

As well as all the normal functions of a remote alarm:

- Alerts transmitter of alarm trigger up to around a km

- Automatically starts engine on programmed time.

- Provides Cabin Temp from transmitter

- Remote engine start

(The idea of the above two is that should you check remotely that the cabin temp is too cold, you can remote start the engine and the CC warms the cabin to desired temp.

- Two stage shock alert back to handunit

- Proximity disarm (it actually senses the remote is within proximity say 2 metres and auto unlocks the doors without having to push the button)

- Also doubles as a turbo timer which bases the run on time on measured oil temp and revs. When I've been taking it easy, it doesn't run on, when I've been thrashing, it does.

- Remote engine off, ie. if the unit runs the unit on and I've removed the key and am no longer in the car, the Engine button can be used to remotely stop engine and arm.

- Does quite a few other things which I have yet to use

Don't know how good it is as a deterent, but it looks serious with the driver paging module under the screen and long range receiver device under the visor.

No ones attemped to break in as yet. (TWood)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5320-gtr-ignition-key/#findComment-81900
Share on other sites

Guest Boxhead

not trying to deter you guys from that alarm, it sounds good, but, from what i hear it aint cheap, and i know dAVE on this forum is actually doing, or did a group buy for a similar alarm, and it worked out cheaper, i am not sure of exact details, but here is his email address for you, honestly, check the one he is getting out before you buy anything...

[email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5320-gtr-ignition-key/#findComment-81921
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...