Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dont think he'll get to 11s so easy, he wont wanna use more than a 75 shot and if he dont have a twin plate his clutch will slip for sure unless its fairly new. good luck and if your going to use nos use NOS brand its the best.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53267-nos-experts/#findComment-1046347
Share on other sites

isnt Nos like a huge defect and really dangerous to have in the car...........

.....it's not flammable (as some movies would like you to believe.)

and if you're silly enough to have it hooked up while you're driving around the streets, then you deserve to get reamed. It's quite legal to have the system installed in the car, provided the bottle is only hooked up when you're on the strip. :rolleyes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53267-nos-experts/#findComment-1046545
Share on other sites

The wet kit is the go.

When deciding what sort of power shot you want to eventually use you need to set a total limit of horsepower based on what the engine can sustain comfortably. This is irrespective of nitrous or turbo upgrade. 75hp shot is not your limit necessarily, it is a starting point.

If you believe the standard RB20 internals can handle a power upgrade to 350rwhp (I seem to recall this somewhere but, just take it as an example only). At present you have 170rwhp minus this from the 350rwhp and you have room for another 180rwhp. If you decide the extra power will be added via a nitrous kit then you can use a shot of upto 180rwhp extra.

To provide for this power you will need to upgrade the fuel pump system to provide the total fuel fow equivalent to this power level. A simple way to do this is to obtain a big bosch fuel pump (around $300 or so for something that can flow 500+hp worth of fuel). A clutch upgrade will be needed at some stage if you want a great increase over stock power. Other than that a colder range of plug , a few degrees of base timing retarded and off you go.

It's a very cheap way to have that sort of power level. No ecu upgrade, no boost controler, no injectors etc... Info wise there are a couple of us that have 'hands on' experience with settig up our own nitrous kits. 2rismo, has had fun getting his stock turbo'd gtst into 11's with nitorus, check the 'drag/drift' section.

To get the good times after the power is there you need to have traction. So 'pineapples' for the diff cradle and some nice wide sticky rubber for the back. 11's can be yours with a little mucking around.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53267-nos-experts/#findComment-1046590
Share on other sites

this might be against rules, but could you have this hooked for a real track (one with turns :rolleyes: ) so when you come down the straight, give it a little shot, and that's it? Would this be against the rules when racing?

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53267-nos-experts/#findComment-1046773
Share on other sites

I guess it depends which category, but I'm pretty sure its illegal in most. Certainly is in production touring cars and improved production.

Anyway, I'd rather run N20 on the street than have no cat converter :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53267-nos-experts/#findComment-1047015
Share on other sites

The wet kit is the go.

When deciding what sort of power shot you want to eventually use you need to set a total limit of horsepower based on what the engine can sustain comfortably. This is irrespective of nitrous or turbo upgrade. 75hp shot is not your limit necessarily, it is a starting point.

If you believe the standard RB20 internals can handle a power upgrade to 350rwhp (I seem to recall this somewhere but, just take it as an example only). At present you have 170rwhp minus this from the 350rwhp and you have room for another 180rwhp. If you decide the extra power will be added via a nitrous kit then you can use a shot of upto 180rwhp extra. 

To provide for this power you will need to upgrade the fuel pump system to provide the total fuel fow equivalent to this power level. A simple way to do this is to obtain a big bosch fuel pump (around $300 or so for something that can flow 500+hp worth of fuel). A clutch upgrade will be needed at some stage if you want a great increase over stock power.  Other than that a colder range of plug , a few degrees of base timing retarded and off you go.

It's a very cheap way to have that sort of power level. No ecu upgrade, no boost controler, no injectors etc... Info wise there are a couple of us that have 'hands on' experience with settig up our own nitrous kits. 2rismo, has had fun getting his stock turbo'd gtst into 11's with nitorus, check the 'drag/drift' section.

To get the good times after the power is there you need to have traction. So 'pineapples' for the diff cradle and some nice wide sticky rubber for the back. 11's can be yours with a little mucking around.

thankx for the info was going to hook it up 4 strip use only and thats not 165.2 rwhp neither ists rwkw 221 rwhp any way i am going to spend my money eles where as for the clutch its a twin
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53267-nos-experts/#findComment-1050695
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...