Jump to content
SAU Community

Look at this import R33 GTR


Recommended Posts

The chances of a good buy these days are rare but it does happen,

It is more a bit of info for those people new to importing that these cars are not all bargins and that cars sales men are not always honest.

People in the forums can do with a bit of help when it comes from learning from other peoples dramas when importing cars from Japan and what you see isnt always what you get.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Best thing to do is ask for an auction report from when the vehicle was bought, and see what happens then.  

They can make ones up even then, they are car sales men.

Sorry i wouldnt wipe my arse with those reports.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry i wouldnt wipe my arse with those reports.......

Yes that is as true as you can get, I would like them to show the origional auction report so you would see that big R or A, no grade 4 cars here.

Why else do all the cars have accident history if they are grade 4 cars, if they were that good an auction report dont you think they would scan them and post them as well.

People need to sit back and think before they just leap in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

actually i meant i wouldnt wipe my arse  ALL reports.....even the legit ones......

Would you buy a $60,000 car from the trading post with a photo sent to you from a phone, I cant see a difference with buying off an auction report and not inspecting the car.

I wouldnt touch a car in Japan unless one of 2 people I personaly know can inspect the car and find problems I wouldnt pick.

I have had a go on 15 cars this week and havent picked one up with most due to inspection (best one was a grade 4 car with rust hole in the boot).

One that was clean as, a manual 1993 50,000 klm GTS-t with an RB20DET that sold for 820,000 FOB, nerarly as much as a average 92 GTR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Would you buy a $60,000 car from the trading post with a photo sent to you from a phone, I cant see a difference with buying off an auction report and not inspecting the car.

I wouldnt touch a car in Japan unless one of 2 people I personaly know can inspect the car and find problems I wouldnt pick.

I have had a go on 15 cars this week and havent picked one up with most due to inspection (best one was a grade 4 car with rust hole in the boot).

One that was clean as, a manual 1993 50,000 klm GTS-t with an RB20DET that sold for 820,000 FOB, nerarly as much as a average 92 GTR.

If the car becomes dodgy cant you sue geoff or seller?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
If the car becomes dodgy cant you sue geoff or seller?

How do they know you havent mistreated the car - eg tracking the car at redline for a weekend ?

They cant be held accountable for the vehicle in your possesion..

Look at Demons story on the forced induction forum I think it was.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A trained monkey can buy you a car from stock posted up at sites like www.japanautodirect.com/  and these guys even advertise in Unique Cars so its no secret.

Look at this link, that set of roller doors are in a lot of photos that you see on emails that are spamed out.

www.japanautodirect.com/auto.specsheet.cfm?id=245

there is actually TWO different cars in that photo...look at the photo at the end it has a monster tacho where as the shots of the interior show no monstor tacho...hard to believe people when their pictures are not truthful...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You always have to take these cars with a grain of salt. I bought my 1989 GTS-T through Prestige (which is spending its first ever night at home now that compliancing is complete), and that was advertised as "no accident history." However, when the side intrusion bars were being installed, lo and behold, the rear right door had an intrusion bar already present, indicating the door had been replaced with a post 91 model (which had intrusion bars). So it did have accident history after all, albiet minor...

Having said that, the car is absolutely mint and i would still recommend Prestige to anyone looking to import.

My car is this one by the way:

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=2831

Bargain if i may say so myself!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't make it out of your driveway. Both your rear wheels will go in whichever direction they feel. Your Hicas rack or a lockout bar is required to keep your wheels straight. 
    • Updating results.  Using ATR45SS-0 model VS UHF57-900. Those two are very different turbos, different wheels sets with different wheel hub profiles but yet with almost identical result. I’m intrigued with both turbos performance. ATR45SS-0 was a 61mm turbo first developed in May 2020, UHF57-900 was a 62mm turbo developed in March 2024 as a powered up alternative of a G30-900. On paper ATR45SS-0 maxed at 563rwkws, while UHF57-900 maxed at 568rwkws. ATR45SS was slightly more responsive with slightly better power band through the mid range.  Road driving ability, ATR45SS-0 had better throttle response, felt more robust under throttle, as it wakes up earlier. I think G series wheel hub design made it to have higher inertia under light throttle. Doing bit more prototype work in the next few weeks, will update result when its back on dyno again. ATR45SS0 Blue, UHF57-900 Red Chequered tuner's Dynapack hub dyno, E85 fuel. Mod list is in video below video_20240604_114214.mp4    
    • Did you run the power cables for the mac valve to the other side of the car near the fusebox? Utilizing the stock boost controller cables? or did you run new ones?
    • Hey I have a potentially stupid HICAS question 🤣 I'm currently doing a full hicas delete, Power steering pump modified to non hicas, all lines removed from the car along with all electronics. My stupid question is - Do I need a lock out bar? is there any reason why I cant just remove everything from the rear end? I already have a lock out bar but thinking to save a few extra grams I could also get rid of the arms and tie rods as well and just run it with nothing in its place? or would it have a negative effect on handling?
    • Hi how are you guys?  I know i have been absent for years but im coming back slowly guys just wondering if anyone know where the ball joint on the NISMO arm front and rear can be replaced with OE parts?  Also  i know this is not the thread looking for springs and blistein shocks for the 260rs. Please advcie     cheers    yudy
×
×
  • Create New...