Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey man, are these in the boot ?  Cheers ...

Hi, the one on the wheel arch is outside the car, the other one is in the boot, here's a picture, in the pic on the right the boot is open...

Cheers

  • Replies 202
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

also, have u got side skirts?

off the top of your head are the sI and sII skirts any different? sII should fit on a sI body though....?

offer a price, pm me your number or call me on 0423736908 or email me at [email protected] to talk bout the skirts and mats.. thanx

also, have u got side skirts?

off the top of your head are the sI and sII skirts any different? sII should fit on a sI body though....?

offer a price, pm me your number or call me on 0423736908 or email me at [email protected] to talk bout the skirts and mats.. thanx

Um, sorry, drivers side got smashed up real bad ... can't sell them at all. And $100 for floor mats, sorry, don't think so.

Hi, the one on the wheel arch is outside the car, the other one is in the boot, here's a picture, in the pic on the right the boot is open...

Cheers

um sorry, don't have any of that gear ...

ant95GTR - Yes,  i have the surround for the switches, it will be $50 (series 2 and all).  The console lid will not be sold seperatly however, because I won't be able to sell the rest like that... will sell the whole console for $200.

P1E - Yes, it have the switch and loom - $175

cooky2511 - Not yet man, but will early this week.

skyline33 - sounds good man, I'll have to get back to you tho, someone is digging at the tail lights already ... if it falls through, they're yours ...

whats happening man, are you wanting to sell those parts or what??

Um, sorry, drivers side got smashed up real bad ... can't sell them at all.

can i see a pic of the mats please? wether they've been damaged from wear and tear or not.. plus i dunno what they look like.. if they're good 150 it is.. ive seen a few different types and some of em are a bit dodgy..

and as for the skirts.. im after the left in particular if its not different to a sI which i doubt it would be..

gimme a price on that too please

thanx

Interested in part of the window winding mechanism. At the bottom there is a ball and socket type arrangement that runs along a track parallel to the ground. I really need one of those little white round things that run inside that track. For a decent price I will take more of the assembly if its too difficult to separate.

babs - Hey man, the mats have sold (as per update on front page) ... i'll get you a photo of the skirt tonite ...

zymotic - Hey mate, you name a price and I'll see if it's resonable :rant:

PM's replied to ...

Hey Bogan I sent you PM but you never got back to me. Yes I will take the surround for $50 and I'll cover the postage (should be around the $10 mark) PM me with your banking details etc.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...