Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys :)

ok, i have an OS twin plate clutch, and i was wandering about something..

whats rate on that? how much could it handle..

also, and this is the important Q :

a while ago i heard that u can rebuild ur OS clutch by Exedy!

is that true?? iive been trying to remember where i heard that but no use :D

any idea???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53819-os-exedy/
Share on other sites

mate there is an OS dealer in Aus too. www.otomoto.com.au

Rebuilding your OS clutch with exedy bits will not give you a new OS clutch. Just like rebuilding your HKS turbo with Garret parts does not = a new HKS turbo. If (when) I need to rebuild my OS twin plate, I will buy the new OS parts for it. no stuffing around.

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53819-os-exedy/#findComment-1057028
Share on other sites

hi guys :D

ok, i have an OS twin plate clutch, and i was wandering about something..

1.whats rate on that?

2.how much could it handle[/b]..

also, and this is the important Q :

3. a while ago i heard that u can rebuild ur OS clutch by Exedy!

is that true??

ive been trying to remember where i heard that but no use :D

any idea???

1. there are two types of OS Giken twin plates, one is rated at 550 bhp and the other 700 bhp in a GTR (4wd and extra weight) so slightly more for GTST (2wd and less weight).

2. lots, we have had 650 bhp for 2 years in a circuit race GTR using the 550 bhp OS twin plate.

3. my local clutch shop put new linings on the OS Giken clutch plates, no problems.

Hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53819-os-exedy/#findComment-1057767
Share on other sites

Hey SK, how did they reattach the clutch plates, and what material?

No one down here has the 1mm thick plates.. or know how to attach it?

The OS Giken clutch linings are bonded onto the disk on the road (lower power rating) spec multi plates, they also have coil springs for taking up the shock loading. The race (higher power rating) specs have no coil springs. The splined centre is rivetted to the disks. So the process is to drill out the rivets, keep the spined centres and replace the disk and linings with new parts. The equivalent Daikin parts fit pretty well.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53819-os-exedy/#findComment-1058651
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...