Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

quickfit are way overpriced from what i have experianced if any in canberra i would stay clear of it would be them their prices were at least 10 - 15% higher than the other places i was geting quotes from.

do what i do though ring up a couple of places get their best price then just keep rining them back saying this place said they will do it for this how much will you do it for :P works wonders i got about 25% off the initial cost i quoted from one place :D

Transtate in belconnen near project lighting, they have tyres imported from japan cant remember the name but they are cheap and really good in all conditions, mine were 265, 45, 18" cost me like $250 each.

Did the ring around today and was disgusted with some of the prices from some merchants I will not mention.

More than double the price of other retailers.

Anyone happen to have seen better prices for these in a 225/45/17

Falken ST1152 - $230

Dunlop SP9000 - $239

i need 2more fronts now, dont really want to pay more than $200 each though

so $180 for the hankooks sound good. i want super low profile tyres though, dont they cost more? seems odd though as there is less rubber on them.

I could run upto 245 apparently, however i don't think I want to as any significant change in the rolling diameter plays havoc with the TCS.

Yeah i saw that price from Tempe on their website but got quoted an extra $10 when i rang up - a little worrying to me.

Thanks for the suggestions though.

ok back from ed's, he's ordered them in for me, they are i think 245/45/17's (not 100% sure) there were quite a few to chose from. the ones im getting are $210 each (will probably do them cheaper on tuesday when they arrive) and as far as he's concerned are good tyres and will do a very good job, so i guess all in all im happy, i could have got ones for $190 but these seemed slightly better and they will wear better for me anyway.

ok back from ed's, he's ordered them in for me, they are i think 245/45/17's (not 100% sure) there were quite a few to chose from. the ones im getting are $210 each (will probably do them cheaper on tuesday when they arrive) and as far as he's concerned are good tyres and will do a very good job, so i guess all in all im happy, i could have got ones for $190 but these seemed slightly better and they will wear better for me anyway.

Do you know what brand/model they are?

sigh, no. i should have asked hey? i will find out for you and let you know, and once they are on i will give some feedback as to my thoughts/oppinion on them.

as i said ed seems to like them, and i trust him implicitly, so all should be good.

on the topic of tyres, anyone know what the usual price for a set of tyres for 18 x 8/7.5 rims? i'm tossing up between 18's and 17's for the stagea, and if rubber for 18's is much more then stuff it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...