Jump to content
SAU Community

speed limiter (cutoff)

6674GTS
 Share

Recommended Posts

6674GTS Newbie

6674GTS

Posted
Posted

Hi, I just bought my GTS RB 25 Turbo model 1995 Automatic, My problem is that when the speed reach 180 Km and if I try to exceed 185 Km the engine refuse to drive faster!? some of my friends told me that there is a speed limiter fitted in the car but I dont know how to remove it?! one of my friends car can speed up to 250 Km and no speed limiter?! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54051-speed-limiter-cutoff/
Share on other sites
Happymeal Contributor

Happymeal

Posted
Posted

If you cut the speed sensor wire though, doesn't it effect the Hicas, which has some component that is speed sensitive? There are devices out there that will alter the speed cut signal. Apexi RSM will do it, orange or blue screen versions. So second hand they wouldn't cost a lot, brand new they are only $450 NZ. This allows you to change or turn off your rev limiter, and change or turn off your speed cut. I got rid of my speed cut but slightly lowered my rev limit to further protect my engine just in case. Cool gadget, has the addedfeatures if you go that way, or timing stats, (and on the blue screen versions) the added G sensor allows you to measure the cornering G's your car goes through.

If you do intend to cut the wire 53, check, do lots of homework, and check again. LAst thing you want is the rear of your car to be activating the hicas randomly while pulling in exess of 190km/h.

  • 4 weeks later...
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

It is definately wire 53 on the R32. I cut it and put it on a switch. The reason for this is it prevents you from exiting Hicas Diagnostic mode when the wire is cut. This is the only thing it effects on the manual. The automatic may be a different story. Comes in handy when you blow away an STi and he thinks he's gonna catch up...hmm I don't think so.

It should be a green wire with a yellow trace. Well it is on the 32 anyway. Good luck with the life ending.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
]']same on the R32?

put in on a switch ? turn it on and off then u get a speed limiter that comes on and off?

WHAT DID I JUST SAY?

It is definately wire 53 on the R32. I cut it and put it on a switch. The reason for this is it prevents you from exiting Hicas Diagnostic mode when the wire is cut.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
r_speedfreak_r Proficient

r_speedfreak_r

Posted
Posted

"your going over 180km/h without major mod's(stock ECU), hummm that would take some road, i wish i knew where the was a road like that around here, if you can drive for 100M without hitting a pot hole your doing well."

Not really, i've got a r33 gts-t with just an exhaust and bov and took it on the track. 180km is only about 5 grand in 3rd and it doenst take long at all to reach it. It's very easy to do.

  • 3 weeks later...
HCR32 Proficient

HCR32

Posted
Posted
i hit 180 almost everynite i got 2 work on the motorway,blacktown 2 silverwater, 11minutes is my best,but thats just squirtin 2 180 here n there

i wouldnt be saying things like above in a public forum. As im sure you people are aware that police browse through these kinds of forums now and then...and it doesnt take much for them to obtain your ip address and get your info from your isp and be on your back for doing 170+k's

so be careful :cheers:

FATAZZ Grand Master

FATAZZ

Posted
Posted
i wouldnt be saying things like above in a public forum. As im sure you people are aware that police browse through these kinds of forums now and then...and it doesnt take much for them to obtain your ip address and get your info from your isp and be on your back for doing 170+k's

so be careful :rofl:

cheers dude,im back 2 dayshift now so 2much traffic 2 speed,was fun while it lasted:P

subaru rs 2.5L have nothing on the motorway

skylines r made 4 highways!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...