Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys.

my clutch had its time, its time for it to go :flamer: .. i was wanting to change it for something to handle around 500hp in my r33 gts25t

whould anyone sugest a dubble plate clutch? brands would be a help to...

is a triple plate not worth for an everyday drive?

thnx in advance

:jump:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54162-what-clutch-do-u-use/
Share on other sites

Guest two.06l
hey guys.

my clutch had its time, its time for it to go :flamer: .. i was wanting to change it for something to handle around 500hp in my r33 gts25t

whould anyone sugest a dubble plate clutch? brands would be a help to...

is a triple plate not worth for an everyday drive?

thnx in advance

:jump:

why dont you pm 2rismo and ask him. I know exactly what he will tell you.

I've driven an OS twin plate.. It is very very nice. :wave:

Pedal is light and it grabs hard but still has a little give for nice street driving.

Ceramic single plates can be a pain in the arse.

But the twin plate is double the price of a ceramic single plate.

cameron Extream 5 Puk single plate clutch with pressure plate, Sprung center - Around $800

with that 5 spuk single plate. i was looking at one from just jap and there are to of them that got my attention. the 5 Button Ceramic and the one next to it but i duno wat one is betar

could they possibly do a good job?

thnx :cooldance

I have the same clutch as Cameron........i can't speak highly enough of it........it holds well, bites well, yet is VERY comfortable to use on the street.

The problem with multi polate clutches is that they wear out just as quick as a single plate........yet cost twice as much to purchase and/or re-co...........

Guest two.06l
with that 5 spuk single plate. i was looking at one from just jap and there are to of them that got my attention. the 5 Button Ceramic and the one next to it but i duno wat one is betar

could they possibly do a good job?

thnx :cooldance

id listen to what i am telling you, pm 2rismo. That is if you want the best clutch for your money.

Yeah but it's about the appropriate part for the application. You can't honestly say that clutch is going to be the best clutch for every purpose? Is so I want one, as long as it's adjustable, can hold 1200hp, and has a chev input spline :D

Guest two.06l
Yeah but it's about the appropriate part for the application. You can't honestly say that clutch is going to be the best clutch for every purpose? Is so I want one, as long as it's adjustable, can hold 1200hp, and has a chev input spline :D

im sure jim could knock one of those up for you. I know what id rather buy ,a clutch that has been properly set up on a test bench to suit each application or some generic crap that clamps all over the place and is not set up correctly.I know what im talking about on this one doughy'.

I gota brass button, is great. Was a little stall prone at first but you get used to it like all things, very on/off thats for sure. I was driving my dads corolla for only a couple days & when i went back to my skyline it really made me realise how on/off my clutch is compared to a normal car.

im sure jim could knock one of those up for you. I know what id rather buy ,a clutch that has been properly set up on a test bench to suit each application or some generic crap that clamps all over the place and is not set up correctly.I know what im talking about on this one doughy'.

italia spares??? what exactly are they?? are they a spare parts wrecker or a clutch specialist???

iam am also interested in a clutch for my GTR which is slipping on fourth and fifth gear. This Jim Berry fellow how do i get in contact with him? ive notice that u guys live in new south whales, have u met this imfamous jim berry in person? u quoted that he test each clutch on the bench for a particular application? is there a web site showing this or is it what his said over the phone? i believe lee wah has used one, is this why there is such a big hype? i dont see why any competant clutch place cant build a clutch to your specs especially in NSW, i always thought they would be a step ahead of the MAROONS :/ i just wanna make sure there good?

Honestly how can u say a clutch is good until u thrash it and then, it will tell u how many kms it held up for and what power figure it was good for? obvioulsy a more aggresive driver will go through a clutch more quickly then a conservative driver?

Is it true multi plates wear out as quick as single plates?

i ve spoken to Jim and he also rebuilds twin plates??? has anybody experienced this..... not to sure what he was going on about... Adrian can u help me out?

is it the compound that makes these clutches good? or the clamping pressure? whats this slip business?

or do i just go for a OS rebuild kit? :/ anybody had any experience with this pathway?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...