Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

great for a natually aspirated engines plenum, but they only get in the way when used in a turbocharged car.

I tend to dissagree with that

I suppose i think of it like blowing through a straw 1.1@10cm 2.1@20cm 3.1@30 cm long.

The shortest one will allow more flow of air whilst your mouth (plenum) exphells the excess and as the tubes get longer the air passing takes longer to get rid of the air in the plenum.

Given that.the ammout of air that can be consumed by the cylinders and the ammount of gas that the exhaust will pass (thus the need for tunned length extractors) will determine the legnth of the ram tubes.Also the direction of velocity that the air is taking from the intercooler pipe also would play a key role.R&D is a science not a guessing game.

And the engine takes air as it needs it when the plenum has an empty space it fills it with more air it doesnt wait in-line.

I suppose i think of it like blowing through a straw 1.1@10cm 2.1@20cm 3.1@30 cm long.

Id make the front ram a few mm shorter to the last.

:/

S3girl's husband: I had a look at it on friday, we were benchracing this plenum last saturday when it was getting fitted. It builds boost quicker with this plenum

but noses over up top. Revs changed aswelll, before it made 270rwkw at around 6800rpm, it now makes 240rwkw up around 7500rpm. It also makes makes slighlty more power on the low boost setting , which from memory right up top bleeds of to the same boost as the high setting(integrale wastegate), but obviuosly loses a tonne of power in the midrange. Physics is a tricky thing :goddam:

cheers

darren

Yes i suppose you could theoreticly predict the air flow to give a good indication..He hasent given us a plenum volume yet,intercooler pipeing diameter lengths of the ram tubes.

What volume of air can a rb25det induce per cylender?

And i still cant answer your question.

would you just use a standard a/f sensor ? weld a nut on each pipe and go through 1 by 1 with the sensor and check the a/f ratios?

We have 3 X F&W sensors, so only takes 2 power runs for a complete set of 6 ratios. Gotta make sure they are calibrated the same though. :(

do you find much variation between cyls? and do you put it down to uneven inlet flow?

I always flow the injectors, so no variation there. I have found #6 to be the leanest usually, followed by #5. There are a number of possible causes other than inlet distribution differences, but I put it mostly down to that:cheers:

S3girl's husband:  I had a look at it on friday, we were benchracing this plenum last saturday when it was getting fitted.  It builds boost quicker with this plenum

but noses over up top. Revs changed aswelll, before it made 270rwkw at around 6800rpm, it now makes 240rwkw up around 7500rpm. It also makes makes slighlty more power on the low boost setting , which from memory right up top bleeds of to the same boost as the high setting(integrale wastegate), but obviuosly loses a tonne of power in the midrange. Physics is a tricky thing  :goddam:  

cheers

darren

Doesnt sound the best. be interesting to compare charts?

I have this plenum too as I wanted a front facing T/B for bonnet clearance issues on my RB30DET.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...