Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well for the last few weeks recently i've been getting alot of ticking from my motor, espec when cold. Took it to my local mechanic who confirmed my suspision that the lifters were buggered, or possibly something else in the head.

Well anyway i've now got myself some more lifters and just curious of the process to replace/ change them over????

i know i gotta remove the rocker covers, then those upside down hoop things with the bolts in them, (can't remember name of them). From that take the old lifters out? bleed new ones? (using wire or somethign in bucket of oil?) and put them in and everythign else back together and thats it? or is there more???

if someones done this before, some help and advice would be much appreciated.

cheers

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54258-how-to-change-lifters/
Share on other sites

I haven't done this but you'll have to remove the camshafts which means timing belt, harmonic balancer etc.

Pretty big job.

Am thinking about doing this myself one day soon too so have looked into it a fair bit.

Might be worth trying an engine flush before you pull it to bits.

What oil are you using? Sometimes when you change brands you get lifter noises until you've done a few oil changes.

Just wondering where you got the new lifters and for how much?

Good luck anyway!

yeah it is actually a pretty big task. just spoke to my mate who knows a fair bit about mechanics. basically harmonic balancer, timing belt, cams all need to be removed. which in that case cos the difficulty getting the harmonic balancer off, its easier to remove the radiator aswel. so yeah u were right on that gtst25.

hmm i'm just summing up if i want to tackle the task with my mates or take it to a workshop.

well i've done a engine oil flush already which made a small difference awhile back and also put alot thicker oil in, but now have decieded just to replace them. Actually found a ripper deal and got a near bare head with all 24 good condition lifters still in it. Thanks Meggala!! Was gonna get new ones till i found out the price of them.

i was also looking into cleaning (well seeing if i can clean them, would only change them if i know which ones are the noisy ones) my lifters sometime over the summer. but just recently the engine developed a noisier rattle, it may be lifters (just really loud) or might be something else? ive had noisy lifters for a while.

heres a recording of the sound. the lifter noise at idle is just a tad too soft to clearly hear, but this other noise is there.

http://users.bigpond.net.au/newkleer/engineshort.mp3 (400kb, or engine.mp3 (720kb) for longer version)

any idea what it could be?

thanks in advance

Dude my gemini had that sound and i never got it fixed in the end the motor shut down...I dont know exactly what it is...The initial sound is all rb on startup but that sound on rev is exreemly sus to me.

Is that a gudjon pin sound anyone.Or a conrod pin loosening.

sorry to hear. hoping my engine doesnt have the same fate!

will hopefull have time on/after the weekend to take the rocket covers off and see if anything is obviously damaged.

how did u determine it was a cylinder? (would a compression test work? might be able to get my brother to bring home a kit from work to test over weekend) or more specifically, how did u determine it wasnt the lifters?

to tell the truth, i took the car to the mechanics to get another set of lifters put in, although i asked for them to double check it was actually the lifters before they start pulling things apart, and anyway to cut it short, an hour later of friggen (i wasn't there so dunno what tests they ran, but i'm guessin compression test would be a start, plus some sorta thing to see where sound is coming from, eg block of wood or one of those tethascope things that docs have) they determined it was coming from cylinder one and defenitly in the block which they believe is a problem with the piston in cycliner one. They never actually got around to looking at the lifters afterall cept that the noise wasn't coming from them so must be alright.

sounds like a gudjon pin.Let us know what it is.

whats a gudjon pin? i've heard of it a few times but got no idea where or what it does....

yeah well i was actually trying to sell car b4 this problem arose, so i'll see how it pans out otherwise i'll be keeping it as a project car and rip the motor out at end of november at which time i'll have a look for this gudjon pin then...hmmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...