Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that was ghostrider who was going to do that but he's off building engines at the moment, i was going to do a group order from jenesis for anything they offered but there was not much interest, i'm still going to order a front bar from them sometime in the next couple of months

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54722-r30-front-bar/#findComment-1070311
Share on other sites

that was ghostrider who was going to do that but he's off building engines at the moment, i was going to do a group order from jenesis for anything they offered but there was not much interest, i'm still going to order a front bar from them sometime in the next couple of months

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54722-r30-front-bar/#findComment-1070312
Share on other sites

IF my memmory serves me correctly in the original blocked thread someone was looking into producing a limited number of DR30 front bars the "ïron mask" variaty i was just wondering what happened to that idea ..... as i am in need of one tis all?

OK Guys, You win!!!!!

The pic below shows the bar I have, if it's the one you want I will do something about it next week.

I will send it away for prepping. Let me know if it's the go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54722-r30-front-bar/#findComment-1070547
Share on other sites

Thats not a bad looking bar, what sorta $$$ would it cost us???

Final costing hasn't been done yet Boof, but a guesstimate is; Hoping for about $300.00 each plus respective freight.

They would have to be boxed probably a similar weight carton that I sent your bits down in and CUBIC would be the problem. If I could get enough of those cartons, I could extend them so as to limit the cost of the packaging.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54722-r30-front-bar/#findComment-1071463
Share on other sites

Final costing hasn't been done yet Boof, but a guesstimate is; Hoping for about $300.00 each plus respective freight.

They would have to be boxed probably a similar weight carton that I sent your bits down in and CUBIC would be the problem. If I could get enough of those cartons, I could extend them so as to limit the cost of the packaging.

yerp thats not a bad price though!! Yeah i could see your problem in finding enough packaging for it, and my box was a fair size, might have to go even bigger/deeper though yeah??

For the record now, my cars all running, just gotta wait for a week or two for rego and its all sweet again!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54722-r30-front-bar/#findComment-1071794
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...