Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so i got leaking rings right so i got a loss of power which is not good, sdo im looking at replacing the rings but while im there i wanna know what other people think i should be replacing as well, i had a modest 200rwkw

engine in itself is stock but alot of bolt on bits , eg 3.5" turbo back, 3" intake, 2.5" stainless steel cooler piping GTR custom intercooler, unichip, boost cut defender, boost controller, thats all power wise

what would you recommended to do? im only looking at a possible 250rwkw ( at most for now)

was thinking new rings (of course) prob standard nissan ones (any thing better??)

and prob forged pistons (maybe not sure if i need it or thats going to far???)

what do you recommend i do or what parts do you reccomend i need to sustain a longer life engine, with increased power?

i know this has prob been covered before but the search didn't help me that much

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54804-engine-rebuild-rb25det/
Share on other sites

A set of forged pistons will do you good in the long run and your engine will last you a long time.

New head gasekt - $400

Pistons/Rings - $1600

Machiening and balancing - $1000 - $2500 which can include other things that might need doing.

Standard rods will be fine at 250rwkw's

If your going to do it once mose well do it proerply and put a set of forged pistons in it :)

:mad:

Jun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...