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Watch this space..TD06 for sale:)

Not happy with it mate? Might know of a 2835ProS that could be for sale in the future

If I could get another turbo I'd be looking at a HKS GTRS, one of those would be great, or even a 2530, depending on what power you where after

Peak power isn't of much concern to me anymore, I'd rather more power over alot of the rev range rather than everyhting in the last 2000rpm

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Yeh i never was after just a peak power figure, more a good power band over 4,000rpm. The fract that i have tried 3 places for an exhaust housing and they all wasnt $1000 for an 8cm one...well suffice to say no way am i paying that much. So looks like my setup will never be optimised, on an RB25 it would be trick though:)

So with a more aggressive tune, removed cat and centre muffler, and 2nd go at cam gears ill see how i go. I still think the turbo has a bit in it, but the money i have just spent on ensureing adequate shielding of the turbo...oh well. She will ride again shortly.

Im keen to go for a drive in your car, only 2530 powered car i have been in was a GTR and an R33, never an RB20

If you are serious, yeh definitely interested in swapping to see what differences there are. Then id like to make a decision based on the results. But i suspect id be happier with the 8cm housing.

My mobile is 0408 409 068, and im actually in Adelaide with work at the moment, so may be abel to swing by and have a look at the housing.

Yeh 10cm housing that has been ceramic coated internally and externally

Im in Adelaide, car in melb, so only going from memory.

At 16psi (high up in the rpm it creeps to just under 17psi) it made 222rwkws. Thats not shootout mode so i have no idea how that power correlates with other readings. Im told the ignition settings ain that extreme, and based on fuel economy it is pig rich. I run an 040 fuel pump wiht std reg and i think im in the high 40% duty, (cant recall exactly but plenty of headroom)...there is a dyno sheet in my gallery of kw and boost.

Thats with a 3"cat which has seen better days, with GTR 444cc injectors, Z32 AFM and Power Fc, HKS Type S cooler and filter. Thats basically it. I think i get about 16psi at 4,700rpm ont he dyno in 4th gear, but thats on a dyno.

For what its worth the tuner said it can easiytl make more power, but he concerned about the strength of the std RB20...so thats where im at:)

I recall you said your waiting for your car to arrive to bolt the thrubo on? Can i borrow the housign just to get it tuned and dyno'd just to be sure/know the differences. If youwant it back then sure...im happy to leave money with you in case you think ill jump the country. But anyway, swap, borrow, buy...let me know your thoughts.

yeah the car lands hopefully 2nd week of feb ill pick it up...

the turbo is actually on a mates car untill mine lands otherwise id let you borrow the housing dude... i still may want to swap to the 10cm housing once i get this on mine (straight away) after i find out where im at with boost levels...

considering mine will have: trust pod, greddy rspl cooler, 3.5" mufflerless turbo back system, tomei cams, highmount manifold, 45mm gate, sard fuel reg, gtr injectors/fc injectors, 044 pump, power fc and avcr... im hoping to see 250rwkw with 1.4bar... then pop goes the rb20, neo-6 rb25 with the above gear but with step 2 cams and hello 280rwkw (max out the turbo) then its either upgrade to larger complete unit (apexi rx6 or td07h) or try out the 10cm housing...

also have to see how the car reacts to my style... more power may not be me - response may better suit me... its all up in the air untill shes on the dyno in mid feb

just took a look at your dyno reports - godamn that thing just skyrocketed didnt it... and thats with the 10cm housing too on 1.2bar... mmm 8cm housing on 1.4bar - should get up there even quicker - but may die off in the end...

on your sheet - dies off a tiny bit right at the end power wise but boost didnt drop... what was the issue there?

- adz

No idea:confused:

I had a few dramas getting the car tuned. So as long as the thing is running and not pinging then i was happy to get the car back on the road.

A few ppl tell me the power does fall off at high rpm with std cams on RB20s. If you plan on going to RB25 then 10cm housing is definitely the go. I think Trust actually recommend the 12cm housing on the TD06-20G for the RB25.

What car is your turbo on now...RB20? Im getting my car dynod again in the next 10 days, this time with no cat or centre muffler, and hopefully the tuner may be able to get some better results having a play with the cam gears...then off to a Sprint in early Feb. Will see if the power band sits a bit too high at a place like Calder, so far at Phillip Island and Winton it was ok, but an extra 20-30rwkws at 4,500rpm has got to help:)

..oh and perhaps we should continue this on the PM rather then wh0re Chris' 2530 thread:)

  • 2 months later...

Bit of a update.......

Car had a replacement fuel tank installed which has cured the fuel leak my car has been having!

Bosch 044 pump installed too, and re-tuned to get it back where it was before

Turned being another frustrating exercise, with the car seeming to have a knock sensor problem and showing massive knock without a hint of detonation!

The car was tuned, ignoring the knock sensor and its now back up to almost 200rwkw, 197odd to be exact, at 1.3 bar boost

It seems I do indeed have a HKS 2510, indicated by it not making much more grunt than 200rwkw, even at higher boost. Next thing for me is to check the pressure drop across the intercooler, and go from there. Damn good fun to be back up to decent power again, even at 200rwkw its a blast to drive, enough power to have plenty of fun with

First, get the knock sensors fixed!!!!

Maybe cam gears next to try and get a bit more top end out of it, as its making peak power jsut after 6200rpm

Pretty happy though, it feels good to drive again

Good to hear Chris :)

Dont you hate these stupid small problems arising all the time....i go to do one thing on my car, then something lets go, or something else happens....

I had my front tyres replaced the other day for the first time, and it turns out the rim has a crack in it :D

Now i gotta fix all the other problems before i even look at getting me car tuned with the twin system to get the same sort of power you're seeeing now.....

Glad to hear your on track.....so.....a bigger turbo later on for you then? :cheers:

Im making peak power at about the same rpm, there is no real point reving my car past 7,000rpm, so imagine yours would be about the same:)

The knock sensor thing seems to be a drama, is it while the engine is under load, when backing off. Im back in Adelaide tomorrow:)

yeah, small problems suck!!

No point reving it past 7 grand really, so I have set the rev limit to 7100, no point in ringing its neck for nothing!

Knock sensor is a bit of a bugger, it happens under load mainly, I think that the signal coming from the knock sensor. Something not right about it thats for sure, so I will have a look at this and see how hard it is to swap with the spares I have

Free most of the week for a beer if you are back in town let me know mate

Chris

No point reving it past 7 grand really, so I have set the rev limit to 7100, no point in ringing its neck for nothing!

Chris

Hi Chris, interesting topic, worth investigating.....

These are Roy's average power calcs.....

NEW SETUP

Roy - TD06-20G , 8cm

rwkw-rpm

222 7,000  

228 6,500  

234 6,000  

232 5,500  

228 5,250  

216 5,000  

204 4,750  

198 4,500

180 4,250

144 4,000

On the first to second gear change the drop is ~3,000 rpm. So if Roy has less than 144 rwkw (the power at 4,000 rpm) at 7,500 rpm then it isn't worth reving it over 7,000 rpm. But if it has more than 144 rwkw at 7,500 rpm then it is.

The most revealing number here is the power jump from 144 at 4,000 rpm to 180 rwkw at 4,250 rpm. I seems to me that reving it to 7,250 rpm (so it falls back to 4,250 rpm) would HAVE to be of considerable benefit. The 7,500 rpm limit may also be worth investigating as the 198 rwkw at 4,500 rpm is also attractive.

Lower rpm limits could be used in second, third and fourth as the gearchange rpm drop is lower in the higher gears ie; the ratios are closer in the standard gearbox.

:cheers:

Yeah, understand that completely, and if I where chasing times then of course there would be benefits to reving your car harder in differant gears, my car is basically a daily driven road car that I can have a bit of fun with on the weekend/nights etc

I can count on one hand the amount of times I have (lately) had the road and the inclination to have a run flat out through 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Once its sorted on the dyno and I want to take it down the strip, then I will look a the benefits of various things such as where my rev limter is set

The way I'd do it though would be set my redline very high (say 8200) and setup a shift light to tell me when the optimum shift rpm is, rather than wait for me to hear it :(

Good point though, and a very valid one at that if you are chasing times :D

Maybe with some cam gears I can get the peak power higher in the rev range and use what you have said to shave some time of a 1/4 run or something,

p.s, you guys had any luck wiring in a GTR air temp sensor yet?

Chris

LOL...but i dont fear for the health of the RB20 like i do the health of the gearbox:( So 1st to 2nd gershifts i dont give a rats a55 about. If i go to the drags then it makes sense to rev it out as hard as i dare in 1st, then 2nd-3rd, 3rd-4th use a more relaxed rev limit.

But there arent many 1st gear corners at a track, and on the street i dont need to get anywhere that quick that the extra 500rpm and 40rwkws odd will be needed:)

Hell i very rarely even use 100% throttle on the street, and very rarely crack the wastegate:)

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