Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

Today my car started making a ticking sound (loud, very audioable when driving) from the turbo side of the engine. It happen when on gas, fast, slow whenever i am on the gas i hear the sound, also if i put the foot down and go up into the rev range it sounds like its getting faster. It doesnt do it on idle, thou if i rev it it sounds to only make it around the 3/4000 rpm mark (the same spot my bov starts going off)

Now with all this in mind, on monday, my Oil line from my turbo to engine blow (was rubber not metal -- dont ask me) now i lost 4L of oil, my mech replace the line with a stock metal rb line, refill with oil and the car was given the OK that everything was working

Now from my limited knownage, i think it might be the turbo, its boosting fine and making power but it sounds like the ticking is related to the spinning of the turbo wheel (guess?)

I will have the car check out on monday (or maybe 2morrow), But if i cant get it in 2morrow it will wreak my head in untill monday can anyone help

thanks mike :D

Hey

I've had the same problem with my car. Does you car have a full exhaust system? This normally happens when you have a cat-back exhaust. You build too much pressure and you blow out one of the gaskets. So as you rev higher you can hear it louder as it is leaking more air. Try getting an exhaust specialist out. Are you in sydney? Give me a yell if you are! Got someone that can help!

Phil

Yeah most likely its gonna be the one of the gaskets. I've blown one before and in the verge of blowing another one. Just get your car checked out by an exhaust specialist. It should cost around $300 mark. If you know the guy you might get it cheaper!

If it was the turbo it would be a very fast noise, almost a buzzing but if it is a ticking and you lost that much oil I'm considering a big end bearing. Get it checked fast and don't drive it unless you have to. The bearing and journal can sieze causing a conrod to snap which will destroy your engine.

Sorry if it sounds over the top but it isn't worth destroying an engine. I had one in mine and the ticking/tapping noise was quite loud in the garage and seemed louder on the left side.

Drop the oil and look for golden coloured metal specs and flakes. If they are there a bearing is going. In that case a rebuild is needed, probably with a crank and conrod big end grind. Sorry to say will be expensive if it is but you get to rebuild a decent engine that will last ages.

I hope it is not that bad but from what you say, it seems pretty clear.

michael ,

it sounds like a big end sorry to say mate .

do this little test . when the engine is cold ( stone cold ) start it up and listen for the noise, it should be very mild while the engine is cold ( thick oil takes up the slac on the bearing ) .

when the engine and oil gets to normal operating temp the noise will get louder , if thats the case then its a big end .

michael ,

it sounds like a big end sorry to say mate .

do this little test . when the engine is cold ( stone cold ) start it up and listen for the noise,  it should be very mild while the engine is cold ( thick oil takes up the slac on the bearing ) .

when the engine and oil gets to normal operating temp the noise will get louder , if thats the case then its a big end .

ok i just did that test, the sound is louder when the car is cold, when the car comes to normal oil/rpm/temp it becomes very quite and u can bearly hear it. give the car a few revs and it comes back for a few seconds :s

i am very confused

exhaust leak, most probably the manifold bolts/studs loose or broken or about to break.

tighten the bolts up, but there is a fair chance that some might break so take care.

Apparently this is a common flaw with the rb engines - dodgy exhaust manifold bolts!

exhaust leak, most probably the manifold bolts/studs loose or broken or about to break.

tighten the bolts up, but there is a fair chance that some might break so take care.

The botls snap.. I had EXACTLY the same thing happen to me at wakefield park. Turns out my exhaust manifold had a slight warp in it and had snapped 6 of the bolts. Its very common on skylines

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...