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What is the most RWKW that can be achieved safely from stock R33 GTS-T internals?? I am going to change the hi-flow turbo for a HKS unit and pop on some injectors, ECU etc - but I dont have enough in my budget to do the internals. I'm only guessing but say 250rwkw can be done on stocks?

What are some RWKW figures people here are running with stock internals?

Can you get away without doing all the internals or is it possible to replace certain weak parts? (e.g. upgrade pistons, camshafts, leave everything else stock)

Would appreciate some feedback

Cheers! : - )

You will need to do some math to make it 100% reliable.

You will need to take in to account the static compression ratio, amount of boost run then play with the cams to get a safe dynamic compression ratio.

OR... Slap a set of mild cams in together with a thicker headgasket and pump the boost in.

400Kw?? Mate the car would stuff up the first time it hits boost on stock internals... Denham has got 324 and he is scared to go any further with stock internals

He asked what the 'MAX RWKW' from a standard internal rb25det is, not whats the safe RWKW limit.

400rwkw, with correct tuning and support systems it wouldnt stuff up the first time it hit boost

it can and probably has been done, but as i said before, wouldnt last very long

He asked what the 'MAX RWKW' from a standard internal rb25det is, not whats the safe RWKW limit.

400rwkw, with correct tuning and support systems it wouldnt stuff up the first time it hit boost

it can and probably has been done, but as i said before, wouldnt last very long

What is the most RWKW that can be achieved safely from stock R33 GTS-T internals?? I am going to change the hi-flow turbo for a HKS unit and pop on some injectors, ECU etc - but I dont have enough in my budget to do the internals. I'm only guessing but say 250rwkw can be done on stocks?

What are some RWKW figures people here are running with stock internals?

Can you get away without doing all the internals or is it possible to replace certain weak parts? (e.g. upgrade pistons, camshafts, leave everything else stock)

Would appreciate some feedback

Cheers! : - )

300rwkw seem to be the *safe* limit generally amongst most people, sure you can go further with the right support mods and a hell of a good tune as -joel- stated, but as everyone says it will be asking for danger and will only be a mater of time before something goes pop, not worth it in the long run, and with summer coming up you'll realy be wanting to watch your tune with the hot weather. Telling you how much the *max * rwkw is would be telling you how long a *piece * of string is, telling you a safe limit is giving you something to go on. Its just not worth going over 300rwkw for the sake of having to get a full rebuild, work on getting that power to the road first...

what is the RB25's drivetrain like with this kinda power?? how much can it handle before things start going bad?

You would need atleast a twin plate clutch at about that power level and a good lsd aswell, apart from that the gear box's hold up pretty good aslong as you dont snap the gears to hard all the time, 3rd's syncro sometimes starts to go, apart from that drive shafts seem to do just fine.

No stock RB25 will take a belting of 300rwkw forever.

Most guys making that on stock internals aint driving around like that day in day out

krzysiu your always misleading with Denham's (INASNT) car. He is not running 324 everyday.

He made that once on a dyno run and thats it.

At Sandown last weekend he was running a more safe and reliable 250rwkw :(

My educated guess keep it under 250rwkw, minimum requirement is a Bosch Motorsport pump, adj fuel pressure reg -no more than 10% increase, Z32 A/F meter, Power FC, FMIC, Aftermarket Turbo, zuast. Air fuel ratio's of 12.3 or richer.

*Keep mixtures stable- the more stable the closer you can go to 12.3.

*Keep ignition curve 2-3 degrees below the 60 knock limit point on a power fc depending on temps.

matt

Hi Guys,

I safely ran 330rwkw with stock internals for over a year, I now run upto 380rwkw with just forged pistons and arp rod bolts as the rod bolts will snap before your Rod will kick a leg out. I did this by retaining a safe tune low as possible boost and standard rev limit.

Recently I have seen the issue with standard head gaskets you really are stretching your friendship over 18psi.

As for running mixtures around the 12.3 you will find a much more reliable motor running around the 11.7 - 11.4 and running around 20degrees total timing whilst boosting 12.3 is to lean you get a bad batch of fuel, a warmer day would see some rattling unless your running like 10 degrees total up top which in that case your just robbing valuable power. thats how I have kept pulling the numbers out of myn reliabley.

I ran on a puk clutch with this power on the road no worrys strip had lots of issues, standard diff has got no chance a Nismo Mechanical is what i run a little noisy but cant break it. standard box will hold up fine theres no need to jam gears with 450HP.

Anyway my R33 is for sale, Dyno proven 381rwkw and a street driven everyday pump fuel 355rwkw 21psi.

BR,

JH

I don't have a problem with a stock reliable 300rwkw providing the comp ratio is nice, it has a set of cams and boost isn't over the top the perplexing part of the equation is the 300rwkw from stock injectors.. :(

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