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this is something I encountered recenlty, unless your car has 5 stud hub then more than likley they wont fit on. The wheels you have on atm are prob 4 stud, and the s14 are 5 stud. You need to either find a new bearing somewhere, cantact either nissan ask for a s13 hub bearing, even someone like midas.

If they are 5 stud already then it is more than likley a s14 upgrade. see how you go

I am about to do a 5 stud conversion to my Cefiro and this is what I know so far:

- The S13 and S14 front hubs have a different bore size, and therefore you cannot just bolt the S14 hub onto the S13 front carrier.

- The S13 and S14 have different sized wheel bearings, which make the above not possible

- You can buy 5 stud hubs that are made to fit the S13 bearing, meaning converting the front is rather easy. It is advised at this time to replace the front bearings. These will need to be pressed in and may cost you upto $200 to do

- The other alternative is to replace the front hub, carrier, ball joint and lower arm with that off a S14. Then there is no messy takings apart of the hub

- The R32 hub, carrier, ball joint and lower arm are the easist way to upgrade the rear. This will allow you to run the bigger brakes also.

If you choose to upgrade front and rear calipers also you will need to replace your front Brake Master Cylinder with a bigger item. A BM44 will do the job. The Standard cylinder wont allow enough fluid to be pumped.

JK

Just for all your info, I have a the moog ball joints that will allow you to just press them in rather than replace the whole lower conroll arm (which are expensive). I also have two s14 spindles,

-1 x s14 caliper.

-1 x s15 caliper.

- 2 x brake rotors

-1x left hand hub.

all for sale if you want em.

Thanks for the reply guys.

I should have probably stated my car is already 5 stud converted. One of the bearings was too tightly screwed and so I decided to get a new hub.

The hub that was on there I couldn't remember how it attached so when I looked back at the hub I saw the splines which too_much has since confirmed are actually sensors for the ABS (of the donor car). Now since Nissan have 5 different part numbers for s14 hubs I thought it may have something to do with the splines (which indirectly I guess it might, ie. ABS, non ABS, Turbo, non Turbo models). Now .. since they ain't really splines, but rather spline looking sensors it won't matter.

Finally I'm left with the theory that it will fit because where the hub attaches is going to be the same fit.

Thanks again for the info - since JK has said the s13 and s14 have a different bore size I'm assuming the bore size on mine is already correct (since the s13 doesn't have a 5 stud). Now I'm hoping it wasn't a 5 stud hub to fit the s13 bearing but rather a replaced whatever else that allows the s14 hub to fit in.

I will see in a couple of hours .. *fingers crossed very hard*

It matched exactly - I was stoked the hub turned out perfect!

No more grinding when goin round corners.

Props have to go to Tim @ UAS on this one he ordered it in for me and made sure it all went good after I spent a whole day harassing him about the part (if it was coming in, when it was coming in, would it fit, what i would have to do etc etc) so yeah that was sweet.

Pity my car caught on fire on the way back but hey that's another story so it's off the road again after being on it for a short lived 4 hours.

Umm, that was tops till i read this part:

Pity my car caught on fire on the way back but hey that's another story so it's off the road again after being on it for a short lived 4 hours.

Now, i'm not sure whether to laught or cry?... are you serious man :consused:

Serious as a pipe in the head.

Whoever wired the car previously didn't have a ****ing clue so I got a few hot wires. So hot they burnt up, had a nice engine bay fire and a heart attack with 2 non working fire extinguishers and a ****load of smoke.

Before anyone asks where the fuse was in all of this, well it popped the first one which was rated at 20mA (which is what I put in because it fit properly and it had a 30 in there before). When it popped I assumed it was cos I down-rated it and put in the 30 which was fine for about 30 seconds, it then fried but fried so hard that it melted into itself, shorting it harder.

Meggala needs to introduce me to the sparky who did the wiring I'd be happy to show them what can be achieved with some good wire.

As far as I can tell the radiator fan wire was soldered into an unidentified loom pin. The pin was probably just used as it had current when the ignition was on but the person who hooked it up probably didn't know where it went back to or what it did. That wire is now cactus.

I ripped that wire out (no radiator fan on) just to do up my sunroof and windows but as I was putting the fuse in everytime I completed the circuit the starter motor goes crazy as if it's trying to start so I'm thinking the short is further up into the loom.

I can only assume that the radiator fan was plugged into the same circuit/fuse as the starter motor - they must be related somehow. On the other hand it could be possible that the starter motor shorted first, fuse blew, then after the fuse melted and shorted it even harder the wire melted onto the loom the radiator fan was plugged into and shorted that out too. I don't think it would make sense plugging in the radiator fan which should be on with ignition to a starter motor (since that only receives current to start the engine afaik)

My assumption continues that the starter motor wire must have a short in it somewhere (and if it didn't then it sure as hell does now) as it tries to start whenever it has current from the battery (ie all the time).

Anyone need any paper held down? I got a cool paper weight that used to be a car.

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