Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

As some of you may know from my other thread, I am having some trouble with a R32 front cut ...

I did a compression test 2nite, and was a little suprised with the results... so repeated the test 3 times with exactly the same results.... The motor only has 119000k on it.....

Results are ...

1 - 150

2 - 145

3 - 145

4 - 130

5 - 135

6 - 150

The cut has a 3 month warrenty... i've only had it a week, and have not made much inroads into stripping it... what do you all think? Call them and take it back?

Please help! :)

was cold..... hmmm maybe i should put it all back together and warm it up :)

is it really meangingless tho ? not even an indication of internal health ? :confused:

I dont worry too much about the pressures, is your gauge calibrated...been dropped lately, read accurately in the first place?

Just go on the variation between the cylinders. Cylinders 4 & 5 look a little low, but i doubt they are low enough to justify replacement?!?!!?!?! Still mine read a lot closer then that when i had done 155,000kms on my RB20

The variation is a little on the high side but i doupt they will take it back .

Its a second hand engine they will say to you ,what do you expect .

If you check with the nissan workshop manual , difference between cil limit is 14 psi so its almost to specs limit . Well number 4 is out by a little more that that .

Anyway you can try and see what they will say .

how many rev's have you tested it at its maby a good thing to count them as cheep comp testers keep presuring up and down as thier internals arnt so great in conclusion your test readings are not so bad if say in cylinder 1 you did 7revs and 4 did 5revs this could be your issue also warm your engine up before hand it will make a diffrents

All I did was turn it over until the guage stopped moving... I did not do the same on all.. I was not counting.... just stopped when the guage stopped

I will do it at running temp.. see what I get then... I cant see how it will make a huge diff....

:coffee:

plugs looked fine...

well....................alrighty then!!!

it will do you no harm asking/telling your mechanic of your issue, (and I understand that it can be an emotional one!!), see what he says about it.

(the guy u bought the engine off, or whatever).

Do your 'warm test' though, as your fellow Skliner's suggest, first up.

I know how you feel, but your baby will be fine!!! (got heaps of life left in the thing!!)

Remember Ed G......the test between a truly warm/hot engine and a cold one can be quite dynamic!! That's just the way they work!!

ah.......anyways!!!

Mark :)

Yeah...just stressin!!

I'mnot going to call the dude until after I have done the warm test.... doing it 2moro (just put it all back together)

The motor is smooth tho, no knocks/clicks/taps etc, so just hoping for the best 2moro... Will post up the results!

I hope its ok!

The difference between ring end gap from a warm to cold RB20 is around 10 thou, so YES...this will make a difference. Also, have you done a wet compression test. This will give you a true indication of whether the rings are bad. All you gotta do is a normal pressure test, then pour about 2 capfulls of oil down the sparkplug hole and do the cylinder again. Note the new readings and then post them hear. I will tell you if the rings appear stuffed.

NO QUESTIONS...JUST DO IT!

2 Cap Fulls?!?!?! Thats quite a lot... :D

My RB20t when I pulled it out had 140 all round with 5psi variation +-.

I would have loved to see how much more it had left in it. I pulled it out at 169,000km's.

Its only ever run the stocker turbo on 1-1.1bar though. :)

There was a tinny little bit of oil that had coated the inside of all the piping but it was really stuff all. Probably just a build up over time.

Yeah...just stressin!!

I'mnot going to call the dude until after I have done the warm test.... doing it 2moro (just put it all back together)  

The motor is smooth tho, no knocks/clicks/taps etc, so just hoping for the best 2moro... Will post up the results!

I hope its ok!

Motor is smooth, no knocking, idles ok? ROSES!

there you go!

Do not pour oil down your sparky holes!!! Not a drop!

Like mentioned, comp lock can and will (to some degree) occur.

Just wait and do what you said you were going to do for now. 'Wet test' (if you feel you really have to) later.???????

idle is not ok :D see other thread .. uhh will find the link...

Will do warm test... post then wet test if needed .... what does the wet test prove that a 'dry' test wont?? :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some of the filler.   Also if I look under the top flap of metal it starts looking good quite close to the edge. I get the feeling it doesn't go much further.
    • So, I finally started digging at the bit of my roof that was cracking and bulging a bit. Well, it was just thick filler that was covering some pretty bad rust. I didn't find the edges, I was too bummed to keep going.  There are a few holes as you can see. There was just so much filler but looks like no attempt under the filler to prime or use rust converter, just slapped filler on exposed rust.  Anyway, I'm going to take the windshield out and find the edges. I'd love to fix this myself as I'm pretty sure it'll be expensive to get done properly. I was thinking I could just get a cut piece from another E39 and just weld it in place as it would be the right size and shape.  Thoughts?
    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
×
×
  • Create New...