Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

As some of you may know from my other thread, I am having some trouble with a R32 front cut ...

I did a compression test 2nite, and was a little suprised with the results... so repeated the test 3 times with exactly the same results.... The motor only has 119000k on it.....

Results are ...

1 - 150

2 - 145

3 - 145

4 - 130

5 - 135

6 - 150

The cut has a 3 month warrenty... i've only had it a week, and have not made much inroads into stripping it... what do you all think? Call them and take it back?

Please help! :)

was cold..... hmmm maybe i should put it all back together and warm it up :)

is it really meangingless tho ? not even an indication of internal health ? :confused:

I dont worry too much about the pressures, is your gauge calibrated...been dropped lately, read accurately in the first place?

Just go on the variation between the cylinders. Cylinders 4 & 5 look a little low, but i doubt they are low enough to justify replacement?!?!!?!?! Still mine read a lot closer then that when i had done 155,000kms on my RB20

The variation is a little on the high side but i doupt they will take it back .

Its a second hand engine they will say to you ,what do you expect .

If you check with the nissan workshop manual , difference between cil limit is 14 psi so its almost to specs limit . Well number 4 is out by a little more that that .

Anyway you can try and see what they will say .

how many rev's have you tested it at its maby a good thing to count them as cheep comp testers keep presuring up and down as thier internals arnt so great in conclusion your test readings are not so bad if say in cylinder 1 you did 7revs and 4 did 5revs this could be your issue also warm your engine up before hand it will make a diffrents

All I did was turn it over until the guage stopped moving... I did not do the same on all.. I was not counting.... just stopped when the guage stopped

I will do it at running temp.. see what I get then... I cant see how it will make a huge diff....

:coffee:

plugs looked fine...

well....................alrighty then!!!

it will do you no harm asking/telling your mechanic of your issue, (and I understand that it can be an emotional one!!), see what he says about it.

(the guy u bought the engine off, or whatever).

Do your 'warm test' though, as your fellow Skliner's suggest, first up.

I know how you feel, but your baby will be fine!!! (got heaps of life left in the thing!!)

Remember Ed G......the test between a truly warm/hot engine and a cold one can be quite dynamic!! That's just the way they work!!

ah.......anyways!!!

Mark :)

Yeah...just stressin!!

I'mnot going to call the dude until after I have done the warm test.... doing it 2moro (just put it all back together)

The motor is smooth tho, no knocks/clicks/taps etc, so just hoping for the best 2moro... Will post up the results!

I hope its ok!

The difference between ring end gap from a warm to cold RB20 is around 10 thou, so YES...this will make a difference. Also, have you done a wet compression test. This will give you a true indication of whether the rings are bad. All you gotta do is a normal pressure test, then pour about 2 capfulls of oil down the sparkplug hole and do the cylinder again. Note the new readings and then post them hear. I will tell you if the rings appear stuffed.

NO QUESTIONS...JUST DO IT!

2 Cap Fulls?!?!?! Thats quite a lot... :D

My RB20t when I pulled it out had 140 all round with 5psi variation +-.

I would have loved to see how much more it had left in it. I pulled it out at 169,000km's.

Its only ever run the stocker turbo on 1-1.1bar though. :)

There was a tinny little bit of oil that had coated the inside of all the piping but it was really stuff all. Probably just a build up over time.

Yeah...just stressin!!

I'mnot going to call the dude until after I have done the warm test.... doing it 2moro (just put it all back together)  

The motor is smooth tho, no knocks/clicks/taps etc, so just hoping for the best 2moro... Will post up the results!

I hope its ok!

Motor is smooth, no knocking, idles ok? ROSES!

there you go!

Do not pour oil down your sparky holes!!! Not a drop!

Like mentioned, comp lock can and will (to some degree) occur.

Just wait and do what you said you were going to do for now. 'Wet test' (if you feel you really have to) later.???????

idle is not ok :D see other thread .. uhh will find the link...

Will do warm test... post then wet test if needed .... what does the wet test prove that a 'dry' test wont?? :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...