Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, the best thing to do if ur thinking of increasing power is to forget about an rb30. the main thing u want is the block. then u either want an rb25 head or rb26 head. this is because they are both double overhead cams, where the rb30 is single. if u place either the rb25 or rb26 head on the rb30 block u get a 40% power increase and if u have a decent exhaust and air intake its a bit more. i dnt know how much is ivolved for the rb26 head because it expensive. but the conversion to an rb25 head is very simple. its an amount of tapping it very carefully into place. and that 40% increase applies to N/A cars. so imagine the power if it was turbo.

hey, the best thing to do if ur thinking of increasing power is to forget about an rb30. the main thing u want is the block from a VL. then u either want an rb25 head or rb26 head. this is because they are both double overhead cams, where the rb30 is single. if u place either the rb25 or rb26 head on the rb30 block u get a 40% power increase and if u have a decent exhaust and air intake its a bit more. i dnt know how much is ivolved for the rb26 head because it expensive. but the conversion to an rb25 head is very simple. its an amount of tapping it very carefully into place. and that 40% increase applies to N/A cars. so imagine the power if it was turbo.

But that being said.. If you are going to the expense of a motor build you would probably be better off building it to suit turbo or even better buying a turbo model & rip the turbo off if insurance is too high then drive it around as NA for a while until you can justify spending the $$.

I am not doing this conversion - but am quite interested in what you are saying here...

Basically what i gather is tha; build a high compression RB30DET, take off the turbo?

and drive it as an RB30DE - then its just a simple matter of bolting the turbo back on??

EDIT: I've thought about this with a mate - and just seems unpractical.

tuning, exhaust, intakes and lil bits an pieces need to be changed...

dis-regard the post // but will leave it for others.

  • 1 month later...

*poke*

i'd like to restart any discussion on the rb30de... more specifically with the 26 head.

if anyone has done the 25/30 or 26/30 conversion care to post any dyno graphs or 1/4 mile times?

what compression do you run 10:1? 11:1? did you retain the vvt? (how do u tune with the vvt?) etc...

yes i've read ALL the pages in the forced induction section, but it doesnt cover the questions related for n/a applications.

thanks

Eug

  • 4 months later...

10.5 with the rb25de pistons, sounds good to me.

Would forged pistons/rods be necessary when running comp that high? or should the rb30 rods and rb25de pistons be enough.

My rb30 has done 230000kms, would a basic rebuild (bearings, hone the bores and new rings on the rb25e pistons) be advised or would I get away without doing it. Or does it depend on what it all looks like inside?

Would a brake upgrade be required for the power increase? (i have a r31 silo)

10.5 sounds good, i'd be inclined to go to 11 if possible.

i've read that a few of the 30DET guys using stock parts so i cant see why not.

forged pistons wont be necessary, however lightweight pistons wud be good.

yes it does depend on the condition of the block.

brake upgrade would be advisable but a good set of pads and rotors may be sufficient depending on how u drive.

eug

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...