Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

My spec2 97 model has this exact problem. Stalling frequently whren coming to a stop and idling really roughy. Like the rpm cycles from 1500 rpm down to like 100rpm then back up over and oever and eventually will either stall or stay at about 1000rpm

can anyone suggest what i should do to correct this?

what steps are involved? you suggested cleaning the airbox? please provide some steps, i dont know heaps about cars, only a little bit

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest RedLineGTR

Just cleaned it a couple days ago, may of made a bit of difference but not that noticeable got a can of electrical contact cleaner, got a can for about $21 or so dollars, but beware some of the contact cleaners leave a sticky residue, had a little spray on my hand and it disappeared in a couple seconds. Went home pulled the bitch out and started spraying, spraying, spraying...oops used the whole bottle..lolz but at least i could see the color or the actual unit itself. Prop do it once in a while but wouldn't bother doing it like every oil change or something like that.

If people have idle problems as most have on these replies I would recommend some, thoe $21 is a bit of a waste of money but with some testing the engine seems to be finding the correct revs at idle & calculating air entering the system more accurately.

PS. IF you wanna use brake cleaner by all means do if it works fine, my experience with the contact cleaner was great no problems, Just choose the right one. (dicksmith guys that work there a dicks so when they have walked away, try some sprays out for yourself)

Cheers Rob

Guest TTZ32
Originally posted by paulr33

Hi,

My spec2 97 model has this exact problem. Stalling frequently whren coming to a stop and idling really roughy. Like the rpm cycles from 1500 rpm down to like 100rpm then back up over and oever and eventually will either stall or stay at about 1000rpm

can anyone suggest what i should do to correct this?

what steps are involved? you suggested cleaning the airbox? please provide some steps, i dont know heaps about cars, only a little bit

Check the AFM is actually connected:) Maybe it's faulty, also check the coolant temp sensor and connector

Originally posted by RedLineGTR

....but beware some of the contact cleaners leave a sticky residue, had a little spray on my hand and it disappeared in a couple seconds...

Yeah, the one I said Rob, FLUX OFF leaves NO residue either! I cleaned out my mobile and got it working with this stuff ;)

My AFM doesn't seem to be dirty at all ~ yet!

Idle is a tiny bit uneven occasionally but I don't think its AFM related. Most likely due to CAS and idle adjuster being messed with...next dyno session will sort this out though...more than likely

Just for comparison sake, I got some brake cleaner, cost $9 and gave the AFM a quick squirt (a couple of seconds) and it was like new.

If you are having idle probs, it may be more than jsut the AFM, check all hoses that are connected to the plenum/intake pipework, make sure none of the clamps are loose, and check all hoses for damage. Ihad a small crack in a thin piece of rubber pipe where my boost guage was connected, as well as a couple of loose clamps. Sorted these and idle problems disappeared. Also you could try cleaning your AAC valve, as these sometimes cause problems.

it may be worth doing a search about idle, as a few people have had similar probs.

  • 2 months later...
Guest GTSFOUR
Originally posted by RedLineGTR

PS. IF you wanna use brake cleaner by all means do if it works fine, my experience with the contact cleaner was great no problems, Just choose the right one. (dicksmith guys that work there a dicks so when they have walked away, try some sprays out for yourself)

Cheers Rob

Well As A "DickSmith Dick" I find you Harsh generalisation offensive. But AS you are a fellow skyline fanatic i might just let it slide. Guys the best thing you can get is Electrolube Ultrasolve cleaning solvent for these reasons

1. It is exactly the job it is designed for

2. "contact cleaner" also lubricates as it is made for cleaning switches which can affect the way a AFM works

3. cheaper stuff will damage plastic if allowed to sit or used in great amounts

4. Its only $17 so why not

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - there is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
    • no one recommending speedtek gearsets?   i'm in the same boat as Cosline but rwd, I am holding boost back in third to 600nm at the hubs to save the gear as i make nearly 750nm at the hubs on a mainline
×
×
  • Create New...