Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone seen the Top Secret AE86 in Vic?

The Jake

By The Jake,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
oh sorry if it sounded like its offending anyone :D

what i meant was, AE86's are too slow and have no power at all..

but then again it's why they made 4cyl N/A's :D

ahaah yeah sure,

let see stock 4ag can rev to 7700, with some tuning 11,000rpm. add 200hp and like 800/900kg? not fast .. him yes for sure

If u think ae86 r shit they why did it BEAT YES WIN! when it was V's a r34 GTR Vspec in the touga? twice not once :P

well...?

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

lol Alex, obviously you don't know that the AE86 used to be an award winning rally car, targa cup car and to date still has its own professional racing class in japan. There's more to AE86's than Initial D, where all the hype comes from. With the right setup an AE86 can do what its built to do... but it'll hardly ever be the same reason people build up RX7's and Skylines, which is pure power.

REDFC Community Regular

REDFC

Posted
Posted
lol Alex, obviously you don't know that the AE86 used to be an award winning rally car, targa cup car and to date still has its own professional racing class in japan. There's more to AE86's than Initial D, where all the hype comes from. With the right setup an AE86 can do what its built to do... but it'll hardly ever be the same reason people build up RX7's and Skylines, which is pure power.

Hey,

Yeh i know, but thats just like most cars.

13_Devil can you speak proper english ?

its 4AGE not 4AG!

And the driver was a total tosshead on that comedy show :P

Yeh Shan, i know. But really, nearly any 4AGE equiped lightweight RWD can fly.

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
if you want to get technical its a 4A-GEU, not a 4a-ge!!!

and its not some slight turning ot reach 11k rpm, u need some serious money to reach that level. An entire forged botem end for one is a necesity

i believed not, talk to Rezz, some dude on the jap section on the forum has one which is making its power in the 9000 to 11000rpm range

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

actually the "U" was supposed to mean reduced pollution engine, but that's since been scrapped. So now you can refer to it as a 4A-GE or 4A-GEU... everyone knows what you mean when you say 4ag.. the family of 1.6L DOHC twincam engines.

Also gettin it to 11,000 rpm is quite easy if you have TRD internals, which is pretty common, not really cheap as chips, but much cheaper than skyline mods :D

GTR-80Y Mentor

GTR-80Y

Posted
Posted
omg the rice king lives... where have you been dude? haven't seen a post from ya in aaaaages

Heya dude, i've been around in the technical section and the NSW sect.

I've been concertrating on power recently, still love the rice tho. She ran a 13.4 at WSID in near stock form and the bug has bitten from there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...