Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

One of my exhaust wheels parted company the other day on my R32 GT-R so it's upgrade time. I have a Power FC and a Blitz SBCiD III already (not installed) and was thinking of adding turbo's, injectors, fuel pump and FMIC.

I've been thinking of a HKS 2530 kit but some posts have mentioned GT RS and GT SS. My priority is not really top end, quick spool up and midrange is what I think I'm after.

Secondly, what size/type of injectors should I be looking at?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55536-which-turbos-do-i-want/
Share on other sites

sounds similar to my project (althoguh my stock turbos are still good :P ) I suggest the GT-SS kit, with 550cc - 700cc injectors and a nismo intank replacement pump.

Tuning, as always will be important - I'm not going to guess what your RWKW will be, as things vary but expect 300+ (mine makes 230 on the stockers with 10psi - stock ECU, inj, pump. 3in exh)

I'm going to be fitting GT2530's to mine (when I get the gaskets.....)

Good luck

I would suggest HKS GT2530/GT2540 or GReddy T517Z/T518Z. Dont rule out the N1 turbos (R34 is ball bearing i believe). Thats what i am running. There are a few turbos being sold on the forum and quite a few in ebay (search for GTR).

If your after response go for the GT-RS or SS the T517z's are a little laggy but the T517z and the GT-SS can make up to 300kw's+ (with a good tune)

I'd personaly go GT-SS or GT-RS as the response is really good on them, for the power they can produce. But the price is also expensive!

:P

Jun

GT-RS i thought were a bit laggy?

The GT-SS seem to be a good turbo for spool up to make over 300rwkw, or if you want to save a few dollars go for 2530, they will make more power, and be a tiny bit laggier than GT-SS

avoid the 2540's, GT-RS & T517z (10's), as these will all be too laggy on your application. That is why i went with the GT2530's. pick either GT-SS or GT530's..... (the GT-SS is the newer design). Someone on the forums made 290awkw on 18psi with the GT-SS, and is aiming for 350awkw....

I went for R32 N1s (group A) same size as the 2530s I believe. I got mine from the Jap yahoo actions through Slidewize imports, $1670 for both almost like new! A little laggier than the standard tubs but strong mid to top end.

R34 N1s would spool faster but probly cost an extra thou. Just depends on cost, I couldnt justify the cost of GT-SS tubs but they would be a good choice for the street.

I'd like the car to remain reasonably civilised, as I'd be driving it mainly on the street with the (very) occasional track day. I'm not a drag racer. As far as money goes...I'd prefer to pay a bit more if I thought I was getting what I wanted, but that doesn't mean I have unlimited funds!

I guess what I'm asking is, what is the on-road difference is between 2530's, GT SS's etc..

Thanks again guys, appreciate the advice.

I like 2530's, I prefer their average power. The GTSS's have more lower in the rpm range but not much, they loose more in the top end. I never use plain bearing turbos so the Trust's would not be on my list. I think 2540 's are the worst turbo pairing HKS have ever sold, they have a big mismatch between turbine and compressor sizing.

Bottom line, the GTR with the 2530 's made more power EVERYWHERE than standard and that's was enough for me.:P

I have r33 n1 's in mine and they are great . 2530 's or gtss 's i would go for .

the gtrs's are very laggy and you would need to run high boost 1.5 bar + .

I run 1.2 bar on my n1's and they pull hard from 4000 all the way to 8000 rpm.

I would check the engine if i was you before i install the new turbos . If you had the stock turbos with ceramic wheels and one let go you may find that the ceramic dust has gone through the engine and scored the bores . Which turbo let go ? the rear ? If yes check compression and do a leakdown test on the rear 3 cils to make sure you don't install good turbos then you have to pull the donk out .

One of my exhaust wheels parted company the other day on my R32 GT-R so it's upgrade time. I have a Power FC and a Blitz SBCiD III already (not installed) and was thinking of adding turbo's, injectors, fuel pump and FMIC.

I've been thinking of a HKS 2530 kit but some posts have mentioned GT RS and GT SS. My priority is not really top end, quick spool up and midrange is what I think I'm after.

Secondly, what size/type of injectors should I be looking at?

Thanks in advance

Guest two.06l
Bottom line, the GTR with the 2530 's made more power EVERYWHERE than standard and that's was enough for me.:D

You got that right S.K. We have the full HKS 2530 kit on Staceys car and for a street car, the response is second to none. With the correct cam selection and timing you cant go past them. Its even more surprising that the technology used to produce these is now nearly 15years old.Paul...DIRTgarage.

I like 2530's, I prefer their average power.  The GTSS's have more lower in the rpm range but not much, they loose more in the top end.  I never use plain bearing turbos so the Trust's would not be on my list.  I think 2540 's are the worst turbo pairing HKS have ever sold, they have a big mismatch between turbine and compressor sizing.

Bottom line, the GTR with the 2530 's made more power EVERYWHERE than standard and that's was enough for me.:D

SK as usual is on the money, the SS's are 1mm smaller in the compressor wheel so hit earlier, but for greater average power you can't go past 2530's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...