Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a power steering problem, if anyone else has had this problem and could help me out that would be great -

Steering wheel feels heavy, like there is almost no power assistance -

- Replaced power steering pump with another pump, and it still has a heavy wheel and is exactly the same as before

- Fluid level checked and is fine

I have my HICAS locked, it has been replaced with a solid setup, and the lines have been plugged with a steel shim.This setup has been on there for over 12 months with no problems

I have been told that if its not the pump, it must be the rack, but I just want to know if it could be anything else

Anyone?

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55690-power-steering-prob/
Share on other sites

HICAS is plugged, but it has the Tomei ecu circuit wired in so in theory it shouldn't be pumping anything

So you reckon to loop the HICAS? Might have to give it a shot

Why would it be fine for over a year, and only get problems now? Also, how much pressure goes to the HICAS rack? If I was to plumb it to return, I'd have to cut the old hoses and join them up, would a few hose clamps suffice?

Well, last night it came good!

I was playing around trying to loop the HICAS, I did a little experiment by un-doing the HICAS plugs I have, and starting the car. To my surprise, there was no fluid present in the HICAS lines at all, even when I started it, turned the wheel etc.

So the Tomei HICAS circuit looks like it doesn't allow the solenoid to open at all, hence no pressure being sent/lost in the HICAS lines

Talking to a guy at repco, he suggested, with the car off and the keys in the ignition so you car turn the wheel, to do 3 or four full lock turns left/right, to bleed the power steering rack

After thinking about it, I figured that if the HICAS lines are blocked, hence not comepleting the power steering fluid circuit completely, perhaps there might be air in there, so I tried his trick.............

and bugger me, it worked! It feels much better ( as stupid as it sounds I can't be sure how it felt before, I have gotten so used to the heavy wheel lol!! ) If it stays the way it is now forever, I'd be happy!

So looks like problem was air trapped in the rack, after power steer pump replacement, and having the HICAS lines blocked, the air couldn't get up to the resivior under normal circumstances

After speaking to the guy at the wrecker I got my pump off, he said to be sure, start it and get it up on a hoist and crack the lines going to the rack to see if any air gets squeezed out of them too

So for now, problem solvered!!

Chris

mine does the same...steering goes heavy at times...but the hicas light isnt on, just goes heavy. Ive got the Tomei kit here, just havent got around to fitting it yet.

I have bled the system in the past, but i guess it may be due for another....*sigh* more maintenance....maybe one of those quartely jobs that need doing??

Yeah, it bled fine, no probs apart from the marks on my driveway :rant:

Might jack it up and give it another go tomorrow and see if that makes a differance, but it is definatly better than before

I've been having similar problems with the steering stiffening up too but it is not constantly stiff..... When i first turn the car on the steering is normal but after say 5 mins it stiffens up significantly..... This started to happen the exact same day my speedo cable broke and as the power steering is speed sensitive there must be a connection. I have had the whole system checked and flushed and it has made no change. Is there any problems with your speedo? I'm getting the cable replaced next thurs so i'll know if that's the cause then...

nah, speedo is fine

I know on a mate 33, we took the dash/speedo out to be replaced and the power steering would not work properly without the dash being in, so maybe it gets its speed signal from that, and then works out how much power steering is needed etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...