Jump to content
SAU Community

where to get cheap 1/2 cuts in GC or Bris


Recommended Posts

Hi, sorry if this is rehashing on old posts, but i hope that someone else is wanting to ask the same questions as these!

I'm in need of an RB25DET 1/2 cut auto, and am finding it difficult to avoid getting ripped off. For eg, I rang up a place on the GC asking for the RB25det 1/2 cut they had advertised in a mag for $3300, but then they wanted $4000 over the phone. I reckon this is a rip off considering that VIC & NSW importers are selling em around the $3200 mark (from what i've heard)

Any ideas? Anyone know of any "contacts" that i can get in touch with??

Cheers.

Guest Boxhead
Originally posted by Bozza

Hi, sorry if this is rehashing on old posts, but i hope that someone else is wanting to ask the same questions as these!

I'm in need of an RB25DET 1/2 cut auto, and am finding it difficult to avoid getting ripped off. For eg, I rang up a place on the GC asking for the RB25det 1/2 cut they had advertised in a mag for $3300, but then they wanted $4000 over the phone. I reckon this is a rip off considering that VIC & NSW importers are selling em around the $3200 mark (from what i've heard)

Any ideas? Anyone know of any "contacts" that i can get in touch with??

Cheers.

indeed i will be wanting to ask the same question in a while... so people start answering anytime soon :(

Niz180: where's SCS? How do i get in touch with em?

Dave: Yeah but the time you pay for postage u might as well buy local i reckon - plus if it ***s up you can't just take it up the street to get em to have a look.

Also, I need auto cause it's going into an already auto. VL commodore - too much farting around to convert it to manual

Originally posted by dAVE

oops, forgot to say, u may be better of buy engine with loom... then buying an auto box off here. They go for as low as $150 on the forum...

You reckon? I heard to definately go for the half cut, simply cause you've got the extra bits, and wiring/connecting this to that is a lot easier.

How much for just the engine and loom ya reckon, if i was to pick up an auto box from someone here?

I think RMA are no longer. My wife saw there land advertised For Sale/Lease a few weeks ago in the local paper. I drove past there last week and it was empty - not a single car there.

My wife then tried to email them to see if they had moved etc, see if we could get discounts some other how with RMA Club (some club u get free membership with when u buy a car from them - I've never used it) and it came back saying unknow user.

I know that Mr GTR on the gold coast might have one around. He has allways been reasonably priced, but sometimes a little hard to get hold of. You can try him on 07 55735734 or [email protected] ( i think the email is right).

Cheers

Gary

Tried SCS imports, all they had to offer me was an RB25DE auto front cut, not the turbo... but i kinda want the turbo :(

Also tried to call Mr GTR, but no luck... i'll see if i can get him on email.

As for adelaidejap, seems like they've got just about everything - only problem is it's about the same price as it is here, so by the time i ship it up it'll cost too much. Now the problem is trying to FIND the motor I'm looking for in Brisbane or the Coast!!!

Cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...