Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just bought my bodykit and wondering if anoyone knows a good place to get it fitted and sprayed? It needs a little bit of prep work.

Need somewhere that does a reasonable job for an good price. I know that you get what you pay for.... but still.... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56196-paintshops/
Share on other sites

yep its procoat ... if you're after something really cheap ... but isn't oo bad ... then he is good ... this is how cheap he is ... mind you i've used him a few times myself and plus i've referred alot of people to him so he gives me mates rates i guess ...

but anyways i cracked my front bumper ... not a small crack ... but a big one ... fixed it .. painted ... paint wasn't too bad either, fitted again, the fitting wasn't too bad, wasnt' that good either, if there was one thing that wasn't good about his work its the fitting, but anyways he repainted a small area of the back bumper which had paint cracks due to an accident ... so all up 250 bucks LOL :) Admitted his paint work isn't the best, but hey for the money he charged, theres no way he could be beaten ... he also did for a mate a respray just the outer paint, and fixed alot of dents here and there, and also a big dent on the side ... all up 1k i think or there abouts ...

just remember to remind him to not leave the windows down when he works on the car else it'll get dirty lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56196-paintshops/#findComment-1090715
Share on other sites

Remember and listen very carefully.

You get what you pay for ESPECIALLY when it comes to paint work. I cannot stress that enough.

If you worship your car and pick every little new chip and stress about it then spend the $$ on a good job.

Ask your self if you really want the paint on the body kit to have more orange peel and look different than the body paint?

Cheap paint work can and will have a slightly different colour (some times a white wash to it), orange peel and visible sanding marks under the paint due to lack of care and time on the prep work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56196-paintshops/#findComment-1095839
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...