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gr33dy

Front mounts on street cars are really only Heat Sinks for the intake air.

I think that most will be within 10% of the performance of each other.

I would that taking a bunch of coolers and swapping them in for power runs would make much difference. It would be more a case of the most efficient piping.

anyway, 350rwkw would definently make it a beast of a car.

Burnouts in 4th gear!!

BASS OUT

Boostd - u got a link to your thread? sorry -dont have time to search for it.

Keep the input coming in about the intercoolers and piping guys - If I am gonna spend the $$$ I want some public opinion on their experiences and knowledge.

I think I will install the boost control at the same time as the front mount and the oil catch can - any suggestions? So far I am leaning toward the apexi avcr - what do yous reckon??

:(

350kw is a shit load of power. Especially if u are a newbie to performance cars. I have a 33 making 277rwkw with bilsteins, 255 G3's and strut braces, and still wont grab till 3rd (if ur lucky) I can tell u what i have done and what i have found out since i have done it. First u will definately need a front mount so u can up the boost safely. With out turbo upgrade u cant run over 13-14 pound though. So next i would do fuel pump and reg. Next i would get rid of that air filter ( the last thing u want is a bit of foam 2 go through your turbo) and go for a K&N style. U can then highflow the turbo and up the boost a bit more. The injectors at this stage should be fine as apparently the standard injectors are good for round 400hp. I went for a top mount GT35/40 which will require a new manifold, new turbo lines, ect, more expensive than highflow but sets u up for more horsepower. I installed a set of tomei cams (optional) but assists with turbo lag and if u go the top mount with larger turbo u will need external gate. And ofcourse re tune ur power FC. All this set me back 12k and the motor blew. At this point fitted 550cc injectors to safeguard further detination. Is now only running 12pound but im guising that will be close to the hp limit befor u will need to rebuild. Forged pistons and rods, new crank, RB30 bottom end, flow the head, decompress, and see how much boost you can run before breaking. im guessing the rebuild will be close to 6k, but until gear box and diff give up, will prob get u close to that 350rwkw. Problem is power FC uses air flow meter so u will never pull high kw with a computer upgrade. My advise about boost controller is go cheap. up the boost and save the money, sell the Power FC and buy Motec wich doesnt use an air flow meter and has its own boost controller, so to spend $800 on and AVCR would be a waste. However i have one that worked well before the turbo upgrade. To do it properly i would have to agree u will be looking at around $20,000, so maybe start mild with intercooler boost and fuel upgrade and see how u go?

Any front mount cooler has gotta be better than the factory crap

I paid $660 for my cooler

Its a garrett core 600X300X78 plus end tanks

Then about 500bucks to mount and plumb

When you do a cooler think about doing a custom plenum to

If you plumb your cooler to the factory intake manifold, the piping is like 3.2meters long, thats a long way?

I had a plenum made up now my piping is under 2meters and a hell of alot more Responsive

You cant look past the apaxi avcr, prob one of the best controllers available

Steer clear from the bleed valve style, they are less likely to hold the boost they are set on, they tend to die off up top

Electronic all the way

Sex should be like a skyline- quick, obscene and loud enough for the whole street to hear when you come

is the size of the end tanks on the intercooler important? Is bigger better?

i noticed on my fc commander that the boost is in mmgh (same as the instrument cluster) what does this mean and can somebody please explain the difference between psi and bar.

sorry for the newbie style questions - how else am I gonna learn? :Oops:

You cant look past the apaxi avcr, prob one of the best controllers available

Steer clear from the bleed valve style, they are less likely to hold the boost they are set on, they tend to die off up top

Electronic all the way

Sex should be like a skyline- quick, obscene and loud enough for the whole street to hear when you come

Its very easy to look past an apexi avcr especially using a external gated turbo!!

HKS EVC is a 10x times better boost controller which is dual solenoid and uses a stepper motor, as the avcr is just a single solenoid old school thing!!

is the size of the end tanks on the intercooler important? Is bigger better?

i noticed on my fc commander that the boost is in mmgh (same as the instrument cluster) what does this mean and can somebody please explain the difference between psi and bar.

sorry for the newbie style questions - how else am I gonna learn?  :Oops:

mmhg, is refering to a raise in Mercury measured in millimeters.

760mmhg = 101.3kpa = 1bar = 14.5psi

One Bar is one atmosphere, an atmosphere is 14.5 pounds per square inch.

Cihan.

All those fancy features and the LCD doesent go past the fact it is a single solenoid controller that doesent work well with an external gate!!

The more BS features things have sometimes is to hide the fact they cant do what you want them to do in the first place :D

All those fancy features and the LCD doesent go past the fact it is a single solenoid controller that doesent work well with an external gate!!

The more BS features things have sometimes is to hide the fact they cant do what you want them to do in the first place :D

Hehe, i agree.. They should make it to suite the intended purpose, not hide it with time waster features.

cooler - Look in to trust's kits.

boost controller - NOT the AVCR.. fancy but crap. from what I have read on specs, I would look at the BLITZ SBC-ID III. cost is about $900 from AUTOBAHN or just under $700 from japan online stores.

BOOSTD's turbo story is a very interesting read. However, from what I have read, I don't think that you have the knowledge (nor do I) to get those results as he did most of the work with hybrid-ising (my new word for the day) that turbo.

You sound very much like a "go to a workshop and point at a product for them to fit" kinda a guy as a lot of us are..

I think that you will find with a new intercooler and about 10-11psi boost with the other mods you have, you will see about 200rwkw with the PFC tuned right.

considering this is 20rwkw more than you have now and an even large number of torque higher than you have now, you will be happy with it for a while..

THAT can be the first step you take now..

so...

about $1500 for the cooler

about $700 for the boost controller

about $300 for the new tune

Cihan, Thanx for the info on boost measurements. What is the factory boost setting for an rb25det?

Regarding hks evc - what is there cost and wheres a good supplier? Any links for this one?

Would the hks work well with the standard turbo until I upgrade it? does the hks have duel settings for low and high boost? what is the recommended boost limit for stock turbo but with front mount?

Still trying to decide what is the best front mount to support 250rwkw. Any suggestions?

thanx for taking the time to answer my questions. :D

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