Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTST Intercooler Choice???

ECR033

By ECR033,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

I'm in the process of trying to find myself a FMIC for my R33 GTS-T and due to lacking a bit of knowledge in this area, I'm finding it a little difficult to ascertain which FMIC to purchase. I've been looking through the multitude of threads on the forums regarding intercooler choice and it's provided me with a fair bit of info on specific intercoolers, but I haven't found anything really definitive on value for money intercoolers.

I've currently only got a Mines ECU (soon to be replaced with a PFC), 3" exhaust from dump pipe back and K&N panel filter on my car running standard boost. I'm basically aiming to eventually get 200rwkw running 12psi out of the car (will get a dyno tune once PFC arrives and FMIC is fitted), so I'm not aiming for huge power or anything like that.

What would be examples of good value for money FMIC's for my current/potential set up? I'm looking to spend approx $1500 for the entire kit (obviously spending less to get same results would be better) and I'd prefer to get something that's a straight-in fit as opposed to having to stuff around trying to get everything in place.

I've seen the Blitz LM kits at Autobarn for around $1600 which I thought wasn't too bad for a Japanese brand name cooler (although I know you can probably get them cheaper direct from Greenline or Nengun). Also noticed that a lot of people mention the Hybrid kits these days...are they also good value for money? I've also been told the the GTR FMIC is good enough to do the job as well although I guess I'm a little skeptical about buying something second hand when I don't have too much experience with the particular item. If that is the best way to go, what should I expect to pay and where could I get the pipe work done to get it fitted?

Sorry for the long post, as you can see I'm a little confused lol :confused:

Any help would be great.

Thanks,

Brenden.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56684-r33-gtst-intercooler-choice/
Share on other sites
LANFOH Experienced

LANFOH

Posted
Posted

The guys over at unique auto sports make a good kit for about $1695.00 but this is not installed. People tell it has quite good flow properties. Are you gonna install it yourself? because I think they are pretty expensive in regards to labour. The Hybrid kits are on the cheaper side but you get what you pay for.

:headspin: :headspin: :headspin:

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

I'm eventually going to do one myself and hope to model it on 'lazy-bastard' s job.

Check out his photo album and you'll be impressed.

I'm currently waiting for the cooler to arrive from ebay. Driving me nuts!

But id it does turn up, it was a good deal.

Hyrbid cooler seems to be ok but there are mixed reports on the piing kit as some seem to be paint flaking.

You heading for the same set up as mine and I can't wait !

ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the comments guys.

LANFOH,

I don't live to far away from UAS, so I might go and speak to them about their kit (I had a quick look on their website and it looked ok...although I'm not sure what exactly I'm looking for). It is a little pricey though, will the extra outlay be worth it given what I aiming for with the car? As for installation, I have a mate who used to be a mechanic who's offered to give me a hand to install it so I'm all sorted from that perspective which is good.

Birnie,

What intercooler did you end up purchasing? How much did it end up costing you if you don't mind me asking? I'm also keen to get it set up and dyno tuned once I get my PFC...i'm curious to see what amount of power it will eventually produce.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks again.

Cheers,

Brenden.

rob77 Veteran

rob77

Posted
Posted

Get the blitz, it will be a simple case of "bolt-on". My trust kit was installed in a couple of hours by a workshop as all they had to do was remove the front bar, remove the old one, mount the new one and fit the pipes and hoses. The only triming to be done was to increase the flow through the stock front bar. If you are handy with a spanner and not quick to get frustrated (unlike myself) you should be able to fit it yourself with a few mates to help out.

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

The cooler is 'supposed' to be a TRUST one but i wouldn't be suprised if it's a Hybrid with trust painted on the front, well they have good feedback anyway. Not a fan of the Trust pained lettering but I'll just turn it around i reckon. Just want to know it's a brand name one.

Didn't cost much more than a Hybrid cooler but I'll give further details if it comes thru ok. I'm still waiting after paying about 3 weeks ago. If it doesn't turn up, I'll give em a good baggin' !!!! Fingers still crossed................

LANFOH Experienced

LANFOH

Posted
Posted

Im actually putting some cash together for the UAS kit, Ive seen them on other cars and I dont mind paying extra for the polished pipes and cooler, they look the goods and function well. Give or take a couple of hundred bucks I dont think Its gonna affect performance that much at the horse power you have nominated. But the choice is yours?

ECR033 Mentor

ECR033

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'll speak to them and see what they say about it. Have to admit that it does look good with the polished pipes, although I'm not sure if I want to outlay the extra cash just on the basis of appearance. If you do get yours any time soon, let us know how you go with it mate.

Thanks for the replies so far, they've been helpful. Any other thoughts?

Brenden.

yogi000 Mentor

yogi000

Posted
Posted

i recommend the ARC fmic. I've got that, comes with most piping (black) and what ever it doesnt come with, it uses the stock pipes. I only had to trim 10 x 2 cm off a fin on the front bar, which i thought was fantastic. Cost me ~$1100.

m

yogi000 Mentor

yogi000

Posted
Posted

i recommend the ARC fmic. I've got that, comes with most piping (black) and what ever it doesnt come with, it uses the stock pipes. I only had to trim 10 x 2 cm off a fin on the front bar, which i thought was fantastic. Cost me ~$1100.

m

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...