Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hmm, that sounds tasty!

;) well that is what you get from a bunch of blokes when you ask them about cleaning ;) Do we have any mothers in the house?

Thanks for the suggestions.. I think tea tree or eucalyptus oil may be the best bet to start with. Metho worked nicely to get the ink off the windows but that eats paint. Just want to get the damn crap off, I have more important things that need doing rather than getting sticky crap residue off the bodywork :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56822-shes-here/page/2/#findComment-1099843
Share on other sites

Needs a clean and general tidy up over the next few weeks.. and if I ever find out the #@$#@$#@ who decided to sticky tape up the bonnet they're in trouble! Because cloth tape is an absolute BITCH to remove! (any suggestions???)

Desolvit is the stuff to use. Just soak it on the area for a few minutes and it wipes of. It's citrus based so it won't hurt the paint.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56822-shes-here/page/2/#findComment-1100112
Share on other sites

Nice Gordo ;) Weclome back to the turbo world.

I reckon you should continue the lines right over the roof/boot and give cyrus a run for his money :)

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO He's not alowed to do that, I hear Lauren is getting racing stripes, it's hard being a trend setter :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56822-shes-here/page/2/#findComment-1100153
Share on other sites

Hey Jev,

You should be able to - the 4 doors go for a bit cheaper than the coupes generally. This one was a couple of $k cheaper than some, mainly because it was auto. If you want auto, reckon you would have quite a few 4 door to choose from (although from what I have seen, leg room isn't the greatest in the r32)

I'd just go for a stock one like this one, then you know its maybe less likely to be f'ed with..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56822-shes-here/page/2/#findComment-1102205
Share on other sites

Desolvit is the stuff to use. Just soak it on the area for a few minutes and it wipes of. It's citrus based so it won't hurt the paint.

LEGEND MATE!! Picked up some De-solv-it at Bunnings tonight ($8).. Its like magic.. and like you say, it doesn't hurt the paint at all, just spray it on, and after a minute or so it all just wipes off.

To get a lot of the initial goey mass off, I also found the old fashioned boiling water, and scraping it off work pretty well.

Anyhow, all gone now.. Thanks again :) - thats stuff is the best

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56822-shes-here/page/2/#findComment-1102620
Share on other sites

Hey Jev,

You should be able to - the 4 doors go for a bit cheaper than the coupes generally. This one was a couple of $k cheaper than some, mainly because it was auto. If you want auto, reckon you would have quite a few 4 door to choose from (although from what I have seen, leg room isn't the greatest in the r32)

I'd just go for a stock one like this one, then you know its maybe less likely to be f'ed with..

Correcto... R34 has the most leg room out of the 32, 33 ,34 series.. havent had the pleasure to check out the V35 yet tho.. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56822-shes-here/page/2/#findComment-1102801
Share on other sites

The tape must be the latest in Japanese rice.. I also have a bunch of receipts and a KFC receipt in Japanese, how exciting :)

Will and Scott are on the money.. it *is* stimps old engine.. not the twin turbo one (i hope!) but the other one he had... I'm going to take those off at some point and get them polished or anodised.

Where do you get this purpsol or prepsol stuff?

Everyone must know Stimps,

Don't stress, the twin turbo rb25 is still getting around in the VL and the new owner has put a set of forgies in it :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56822-shes-here/page/2/#findComment-1102807
Share on other sites

well.. I think I've spent about 6-7 hours on this over the weekend, and I still haven't really finished the interior or the engine bay.. every inch of bodywork has been shampooed, cut & polished, waxed and buffed.. its worth it though.. here is an "after" shot.. With that carbon bonnet :cheers: its going to come up pretty well I think..as the bonnet is the only dodgy thing atm:

1332r32_clean02.jpg

And cut and polish is god.. those big scratches are hardly visible anymore... and look at that shine!

1332scratches_fixed.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56822-shes-here/page/2/#findComment-1103742
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...