Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes but you will have to change you'r fuel rail and get a resistor pack becuase the GTR injectors are top feed low impedence and RB25 injectors are high impedence side swimmers.

So GTR injectors are not a direct replacement for the RB25 with stock ecu. You'll have to get Side Feed High Impedence for direct replacement.

You canr't run low impedence injectors with the apexi power fc for RB25 GTST - If you runing one of these.

You can pick up a set of Sard 550cc for around $1000 delivered from Japan.

In the end you would have spent more money then just buying a set of brand new sidefeed's from japan. :)

:)

Jun

Is there an off the shelf fuel rail to suit the gtr style top feed injectors into the r33 rb25? Just wondering as this will be a dilema i will face in the next few weeks.

Dont forget the injector plugs would need changing too.

It appears SARD injectors are not the best for economy. Atomisation.

Either you spend the $$ on an expensive set of nismo/hks etc that use 2-4pintles instead of one big pintle or you put up with the high fuel consumption from sards.

Resistor packs from Nissan can be picked up for $160. $300 for the GTR injectors and thats $460. + cleaning at ~$20 each thats another $100 so all up you will be looking at around $560 to get GTR injectors in your car providing you do the work of fitting them.

I'm still looking in to the Nismo/hks injectors to find out if they really do provide better fuel economy.

Everything suggests so as they atomise better due to the multiple smaller pintles but the problem is no one really has these injectors with a closed loop mode ecu.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...