Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I recently purchased this turbo and was planning to use it on my ca18 silvia. I now have to sell my car so this turbo is up for sale. Its a rb25 turbo from a R33 which has been hiflowed and rebuilt by Precision Turbochargers in Port Macquarie. Its also been machined and now uses a larger sierra wheel. This turbo has been barely used and is like new. Would be a great upgrade for rb20 or even rb25

I can do $850 posted for quick sale, as funds are low atm :P

I am on the Sunshine Coast if you can pickup

r33.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57441-rebuilthiflowed-r33-rb25-turbo/
Share on other sites

I belive only the series 2 R33 turbo's are BB.......Going by the information i was able to obtain in regards to markings on the housings.......yours appears to be series 1.

I could be wrong of course (been known to happen :rofl: )

sorry to possibly hinder your sale......just feel it is better to be sure before sale rather than have the buyer come back after purchase upset. Good luck.......hope it is BB (that means mine is too then :rofl: )

I belive only the series 2 R33 turbo's are BB.......Going by the information i was able to obtain in regards to markings on the housings.......yours appears to be series 1.

I could be wrong of course (been known to happen :rolleyes: )

sorry to possibly hinder your sale......just feel it is better to be sure before sale rather than have the buyer come back after purchase upset.  Good luck.......hope it is BB (that means mine is too then :D )

Thanks RiverSide I was under the impression r33 turbos were BB. With the number on the cover can any one clear this up for me? if its either BB or not the rebuild/hiflow cost $1300 so this is a still a good price. Priced for a quick sale.

actually fane, I know for a fact that my R33 Series II turbo has 45v3 on it, not 45v2. If I were to hazard a guess, I would say it would be a rebuilt s1 turbo, which is still ball bearing anyway.

Good luck with sale!

Just throw a spanner in the works again.........what series would it be if it has V4 written on it?

Would that be off a very late model R33?

ps. I am being serious, I am looking at one for the wifes car it is stamped V4. With all those numbers flying around in this thread i thought you guys might have thought i was taking the piss.

stop dribbling shit

i had a vg30et turbo

which had 45v4

seen ones with 45v2

i dunno whats up with it but there all the same in some way

but yeah

series 2 rb20 and onwards turbos were ballbearing i heard

some vg30et turbos were aswell

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...